So I have decided to go magnets and wooden cavity cover on my first build. 

I went with 6mm x 1mm magnets which seems ok but I think I would go stronger/thicker in the future. 

I also laminated 2 bits of sapele Veneer together 1.5mm  (3mm thickness overall) which seemed ok but it went bent/curved in a couple of days so this needs to be thicker too grrr! 

Has anyone used magnets and a 1 piece or laminated veneer for the cavity cover? If so what is your go to thickness and what size of magnets have you got good results from?

It’s my first build so lots of learning lol. Lived oiling her up the other day!

All like while ago I bought a carve top that has inclusions/ bark holes in the side I want to use as the glue side. I knew it was imperfect when I bought it.

What I'm wondering is it I should I use something to fill the holes before I get to the point of gluing it to the body? I was thinking stabilise with thin super glue and then just fill with wood filler?

I was planning on binding the body too.

I've marked the offending area in the attached photos. The pencil line in A is roughly the edge of the body and shows the intended underside/glue  side of the top.

B is a close up of the area in photo A. C is it from the side after I'd taken some of the excess off the sides and D shows the area from the intended carve side.

 Cheers! 

Dan

I have made a couple of bolt on necks with single action truss rods (The usual ones with the upper part that push upwards when tightened).However i want to try and make a neck with a anchored truss rod (Square anchor) with adjustment at the heel...Like the old Fender slapboards.I have tried to work out slope and measurements for the rails needed for routing the slot for the truss rod,but i´m not entirely sure i get it right.Do some of you guys have experience doing this?.I guess my main questions are:

How far down should the sloped route go for the truss rod to function properly?

And where should the depth peak?.In the middle between nut and heel or a little further in the heel direction where the neck is thicker?.

Is there anything special i have to look out for when gluing in the fillet?.Do you add silicone in the bottom of the slot before gluing?

Thanks 🙂 

Spent the afternoon sanding the neck and noticed towards the end what appears to be a crack in the heel area. It may have been there all along or may have appeared as a result of my working on it. The neck was largely built last year and has sat since then in the house, it was trimmed and fitted to the neck pocket on the body last week. I'm a bit concerned that it may weaken the neck once its glued in and string tension is acting on it. You can see the crack as a thin white line on the end of the heel and continuing into the bottom of the heel in the photo. I'd appreciate any advice on how to deal with this - Try to stabilise the crack, carry on regardless or use it as firewood!!?

Any and all answers gratefully received!! 🙂 

Brian.

Just thought I’d share some photos of my second build with you. Progress has been slow but I’m starting to gain some momentum 🤣🤣. The neck was done during my first build as my “practice neck” and turned out well. This build is my first attempt at prepping and gluing the body blank and cap, my joint lines are not as clean as they might be but they’re not bad (the usual story of everything looking great until you introduce glue into the equation!!🤣🤣).

Body blank is Poplar and the cap is London Plane.

making a start to my second build and I’m prepping the two halves of the body blank prior to gluing. I’m pretty sure that the two surfaces to be joined need to be as flat as possible to achieve a good strong joint. My question is, just how fastidious do you need to be? At the moment, with the two halves lined up as I want them, I can see a tiny sliver of light at a couple of places along the joint line. I should add that the body blank (Poplar) will be having a cap (London plane) glued on top. It’s a slow business prepping these edges!! Might need a refreshing ale!!👍😃🎸🍻

Brian.