I'm planning to build a "stratty" guitar without a scratchplate. Intend to use rattle cans and do a solid colour.
At the moment I'm thinking that the scratchplate shape is part of the vibe so, here's the cunning plan...
Several coats of "white" undercoat. Then cut a scratchplate shape out of sticky backed paper or plastic and carefully put it in position. The usual several coats of colour. Carefully break the laquer around the "scratchplate" and peel (scalpel?). Final clear coats.
What on earth could go wrong 😉
I'm sure it will look great... ? (from a distance...) I would certainly cheer you on Herb but...Why not just use a real scratchplate?
If you are being lazy then don't expect me to encourage you... ?
If you are being 'arty' then good luck to you...(but don't expect me to encourage you... ? ? )
Don't forget the pickups (and the controls) normally mount into the scratchplate
What on earth could go wrong
...What's the worst that can happen? ?
Measure twice, cut once...
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The thinking behind this project...
I always revert to my Strat. It's comfortable for me to play and has a rainbow of tone colours that I love. I really don't play the guitars I make or the others I own even though they're all very playable. If I made a "Strat" I might play it which would be nice. Can I make it a bit different but still feel like a Strat maybe bringing something slightly different to the party to compliment my 30 year old Fender?
So I'm going for...
- mahogany thru-neck,
- angled headstock,
- rosewood board,
- 24.75" scale length,
- pickups mounted from the rear,
- one volume,
- no tone controls,
- 5 way rotary switch,
- no scratchplate,
- no screws on the front,
- maybe the jack on the front (not decided), Strat-type tremelo.
This will mean a larger route at the back which I'm thinking will be recessed plexiglass sprayed on the inside with the body colour (maybe attached with magnets).
I may be losing it and you may need to put me in a home!
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It sounds like you think I won't get a clean transition around the faux scratchplate. I have a Squier scratchplate I could use as the mask if that would be better?
I guess that if the masking fails it'll be a few more un-masked colour coats in the front before the clears.
If my rear-mounted pups ideas are naff (I'll practice/prototype on a scrap first) then it's... keep the parts and source some ash and maple. I think I'll know before all the carving and fretting work etc.
I think you offered some guidelines re the angling of the neck including your recommended thickness at the trem block?
I'm saving for parts - next purchase will be the bridge / trem block. This will allow me to proceed with the drawing and woodwork I think. If Bailey guitars want to recommend and price up some parts please feel free. (BTW I still need to purchase a fit a piezo on the acoustic.)
I like the idea Herb, my only concern is that using magnets to secure the scratch plate may cause some kind of interference with the pickups, depending on their proximity. This may not be the case as I have no experience in of using magnets in guitar building, yet, I do like the idea though.
Make guitars, not war 🌍✌️🎸
Oh that’s good. I wouldn’t want you to have gone to all the trouble of making it and it didn’t work properly because of conflicting magnetic fields. If I didn’t say anything and that happened, I would feel awful. Good luck with it all.
Make guitars, not war 🌍✌️🎸
Does anyone foresee any problems spraying clear onto primer?
It depends on the exact product used - you should do a test! ?
Measure twice, cut once...
always a good tip eh... it'll be Tonetech white primer and Tonetech clear gloss BTW
H