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Robin's build #003

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Robin
(@robin)
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Hollowed out the inside of the cap now and cut the body and cap to rough shape. I thought that only one of the dowels that held the whisky barrel top was going to be visible at the outside, but I've uncovered another two that I hadn't seen. I'll deal with that once I've routed the outside shape and carved the top, maybe binding would cover it. But its beginning to look like a guitar.

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Boo
 Boo
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Posted by: @robin

But its beginning to look like a guitar.

@robin Excellent work sir. I’m glad you are enjoying yourself. 👍🎸

Make guitars, not war 🌍✌️🎸


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Rocknroller912
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@robin

Its shaping up well

Some people call me a tool, others are less complimentary. Tools being useful things.


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Robin
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Looking even more like a guitar now. Routed around the body and cap eventually. I don't think I'm compatible with routers, knocked a lump out of the top horn. Then two bearings on my bottom bearing bit disintegrated, I had lost the original one, these two were from a cheap set of bits. Then the spindle lock came loose and got torn off. Luckily, no injuries to me or major damage to the guitar, but I'll definitely be adding binding to the top edge now. So should I route the recess for the binding before I carve the top and still have a flat top for the router base to run on.

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Rocknroller912
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@robin 

Looks like you have the same luck with routers as me. I think you could route the binding channels before carving but after you’ve routed I think you should mark a line inside the channel to show the limit of where you will carve to, or you may carve below the top level of the binding. I would use a marking gauge using the flat top as reference.

This post was modified 9 months ago by Rocknroller912

Some people call me a tool, others are less complimentary. Tools being useful things.


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Robin
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 I think you could route the binding channels before carving but after you’ve routed I think you should mark a line inside the channel to show the limit of where you will carve to, or you may carve below the top level of the binding. I would use a marking gauge using the flat top as reference.

Thanks @rocknroller912  that sounds like a good plan, I'll need to have a bit of practice at that I think.


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Boo
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Posted by: @robin

So should I route the recess for the binding before I carve the top and still have a flat top for the router base to run on.

@robin I’m not sure with this one as I’ve never done binding. My todo list gets bigger every day. 

Make guitars, not war 🌍✌️🎸


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Rocknroller912
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@robin

Just go for it. Making a plan is good but overthinking a job is bad. It’s only a router and marking gauge, but be careful not to get edge tear out. I’m sure Mark has covered this on a video.

Some people call me a tool, others are less complimentary. Tools being useful things.


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Robin
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Treated myself to a new router, its about half the weight of the ancient Silverline one that I've been using, should be a lot easier to use hopefully.

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Rocknroller912
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@robin

I thought you would get a new one.

Some people call me a tool, others are less complimentary. Tools being useful things.


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Boo
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Posted by: @robin

Treated myself to a new router, its about half the weight of the ancient Silverline one that I've been using, should be a lot easier to use hopefully.

@robin Nice one, it’s the one up from my Bosch router. It looks like it has a much better depth control guide than mine and I bigger motor. I like my Bosch, it’s one of the best routers I’ve had so far but I might have to upgrade again when I get settled in Scotland. 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

Make guitars, not war 🌍✌️🎸


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mattbeels
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Good job @robin, Bosch is good stuff 👍

Practice on scrap...


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Robin
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I've had a first attempt at binding with a strip of maple. I used my soldering iron to heat it, I had it to hot though and burnt the bits that needed tighter bends. Its good enough to let me know that I can do with a little more care and better clamping.

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Rocknroller912
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@robin 

For thin strips steaming an old style kettle on a hob works ok and doesn’t burn, just wear thick gloves. It helps to use a piece of spring steel for sharp bends as it stops the outside edge from cracking.

Some people call me a tool, others are less complimentary. Tools being useful things.


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Robin
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@rocknroller912 

Thats a good idea , I hadn't thought of steam. I'll maybe move into my garage and do that and not steam up my hut.


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Robin
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I've routed the contours on the top now ready for carving into a nice curved shape. This routing is a messy business, the dust extraction port only gets some of it, so I made a temporary frame around my workpiece to catch the rest, it didn't. I also uncovered another couple of dowels that I'll need to make plugs for with the grain going the right way. I'll see how that works out, this one might need to be painted.

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Russ
 Russ
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Hi @robin. I saw this piece of kit at Axminster if you've got another extractor to attach it to. 

https://www.axminstertools.com/axminster-63mm-flex-form-hose-kit-103337  

🙂🎸🎶🙏

🗝️ "Life's what you make it"🗝️


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Robin
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Hi @russ  I'm relying on my henry hoover for dust extraction which works fine when I'm routing a cavity and the sawdust is quite contained, but routing round an edge it flys everywhere. I've got an Einhell battery powered hoover from my pre mains electricity days, next time I'll use that as well and rig up something like that Axminster attachment that you've shown me, that should help thanks.


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Bill Flude
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I’ve got two Screwfix Titan 1400 Watt hoovers - the do a reasonable job - I’ve got two because there are two areas, one with the sander thicknesser, planer and bandsaw in it and the other with my work bench and spindle sander - when I only had one it was a real pain to have to move it and they are only £70 when full price, think one of them was £50 on an offer.   They have the power take of feature which is good.

Measure once........
Measure again.........
Sod it - make tea!


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Robin
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@frocesterbill   I like the idea of the power take off, I sometimes forget to switch mine on.


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