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Drum Sander

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syntholabo
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Is there a minimum required size of drum sander?

Is the 16" Jet too close to soundboard dimensions, for instance?

 

 


   
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mark bailey
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I have the 16" and it is just about OK - you need to make sure it is set up correctly.

If I was a bit richer I might go for one of these babies:

https://www.baileighindustrial.co.uk/drum-sander-sd-174-2?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIuY-mp_j54QIVR5nVCh2mpQJIEAAYASAAEgIyYPD_BwE

 

Measure twice, cut once...


   
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syntholabo
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Oh wow. Might just go for it!

It's amazing how the internet fails to return search items like this.

 


   
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mark bailey
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Don't forget about the extraction - it is vital on these kind of machines

If you do don't forget to tell 'em I recommended them 🙂

Measure twice, cut once...


   
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syntholabo
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Thanks- it says 2 1/2 " port... I got 100mm pipes and reducers.

Also note that specs say MINIMUM stock thickness is 1/4"... we ignoring that?

 


   
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mark bailey
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Strange the ports are not 100mm? I had another look and it looks like the 2 1/2" is a reducer so it could be fitted with a 100mm

(I feel this would be better for cooling and dust collection - but maybe I'm wrong - worth talking to them - why not give them a call?)

Yeh- if we are doing thinner pieces like for acoustic tops, back and sides etc then we put it on top of a piece of 6mm ( 1/4") MDF to raise it up.

Measure twice, cut once...


   
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syntholabo
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Ok- I did it. YiKeS- The SD-174 is coming next week.

Holy shit it's some sexy looking machinery.

... I think need a 110V converter, right? 

 

 

 


   
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syntholabo
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hmm- I'm finding it difficult to find something rated at the right current output. MOst things are up to 16A

>:(

The Baileigh manual states:

SD-174 Power 110V / 60hz / 21A

Main Motor 1.5hp (1.1kw)

 

Anyone have any suggestions for a suitable transformer?


   
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mark bailey
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Oh FFS...

Powered by a 220 volt 1-1/2 hp motor, the SD-174 can be run almost anywhere

I guess the clue was in the word 'almost'...

Sorry dude, but I was under the impression it just plugged in to a standard 240v socket like any other machine.

Maybe you should consider cancelling your order? - or at least ask them how you are supposed to use it 'almost anywhere'

Measure twice, cut once...


   
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syntholabo
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It may well still do! My electric technician- who does all my syntheziser maintenance, thinks they have made a listing error- and probably sell a european version at 220V. I will ring them tomorrow and check.

Also, don't worry about the purchase of the damn thing. It has been so hard to find ANYTHING for months now, I was so grateful to you for knowing about it. I came here for guidance, but I've been researching for a couple of years already- time to put it all into action 🙂

The Jet model comes in near that price anyway, and bigger ones from Jet and Powermatic are 2.5K! I'm getting some VAT relief as well.

It's all good, and working towards an amazing workshop is a dream coming true. All I need now is a proper jointer, and it might be Baileigh again if this one works out!

"Almost there"

 

 

 

 

 


   
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syntholabo
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From Baileigh today:

"I can confirm for the UK it is 240V, the specification was showing the US version.

Sorry for any confusion."

Game on.


   
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darrenking
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Just a thought, but it probably has the 2.5" port to increase the speed of the air flow where the dust is being generated to maximise the efficiency of collection.


   
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syntholabo
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Here goes

Baileigh fun

 

 


   
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mark bailey
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? ? ? ? ? 

Hey man - thats funny!

Seriously - let me know how it goes??

Measure twice, cut once...


   
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syntholabo
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Hehe fun times.

The good news is... it's 240V at 10amps so perfect for more than almost anywhere.

The bad news is... it came with an australian plug!

... and I need to upgrade my shop extractor to 750cfm airflow. 


   
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mark bailey
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Woop!

 

Measure twice, cut once...


   
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syntholabo
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Fired it up today, after UK plug change... I ruined my first roll of p150 >:(

2 questions came to mind, as I contemplated the build again:

- Do you join the tops and backs before doing any sanding?

- I never thought through what grits I need for each part of the sequence- I don't recall changing paper on your Jet 1632 when I made BYO4. 

 

 

 

 


   
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mark bailey
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Hey @syntholabo

- Do you join the tops and backs before doing any sanding?

Thicker pieces (elec guitar bodies, caps etc) can be sanded before joining just to make it easier to work with but I would aim for maybe 80% done and put them through again after joining.

Thinner pieces (soundboards, backs, thin caps) - to be on the safe side you might want to join them first - you have to make a judgement call. Usually the more expensive the wood, the thinner it arrives...

Whatever else happens - I always sand after joining - as there is always a small step somewhere...

- I never thought through what grits I need for each part of the sequence

I mostly leave it loaded with 80g and change to 60g if needed.

60g is great for getting awkward pieces flat and will not clog up - can be a problem - especially with Rosewood and other oily/resinous woods.

I sand 120g and finer by hand (or with my orbital sander) and don't use the machine as it clogs too easily

Also get yourself some abrasive belt cleaner - it will save you a small fortune!

Measure twice, cut once...


   
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syntholabo
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Yeah that abrasive stuff is magic - been using it on belt and spindle sanders very effectively.

I will downgrit to 80, especially having ruined the 150 grit this weekend on an old cedar garden bench - doh!

---

Have you ever tried resawing a piece for back, sides or top? I have a piece of maple about 8mm thick which seems a waste to sand away.

 

 

 


   
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mark bailey
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 ? I have re-sawn wood for ukes but not full sized acoustics, as my bandsaw is a bit too wimpy for that sort of thing.

8mm is probably too thin to bookmatch - you will likely end up with veneers - or worse...

You could try but I don't fancy your chances  ? 

I know it is annoying but it is better to try not to be too greedy....the bandsaw needs feeding...it is hungry....it will eat it. ? 

My advice: Use the 8mm for something else and find another piece.

Measure twice, cut once...


   
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