@rathius straight edge is a good idea, used that method to cut the slot for the switch on my strat build, worked great. Also with plunge base, got the elmer one which is identical to all of them lol.  …   Read more»

@nsj oh I need to show you fret 24. I did it with a dremel on a plunge base with edge guide against the end of the fretboard. Made a little mess but what the hell. It’s the first…   Read more»

@rathius I was thinking like a tree, dragon etc. Could fill with resin, getting the hang of that now. The secret is a tiny amount of pigment, then you can get patterns in the resin instead of a solid block…   Read more»

@nsj as for a full on fretboard, uhm you mean the dots or artwork, like a dragon, roses, etc? something I had considered was starting with 2 pieces of abalone shell as fretboard marker inlay. I have some that are…   Read more»

@rathius A dark wood headstock plate is perfect for hiding everything though! Superglue and sawdust, brilliant on the likes of ebony or that.
 
I can tell you now I’m not that good with the dremmel router! 🤣 
 

@nsj  That gives it more of a wood burning look doesn’t it. Not very deep at all just darken the logo. Cool, cool, cool. That would be an easy way of differentiating between say model A-1 and model A-2, meaning…   Read more»

Frets in, side dots in, fret ends filled and the main neck carve is done. Next up will be some headstock work I think
 

@liebe looking good, the osmo poly x stuff it brilliant imo, bought some not long ago to try out and very happy with the results.   I don’t see it in the pics but if stacking the heel use different…   Read more»

@rathius I’ve got the neje 3 plus, have been thinking about doing a full on fretboard job but so far just use it for the headstock logo. I leave the power fairly low then just keep running the laser over…   Read more»