Thanks Rocknroller, that pretty much confirms my thinking on router bits. Of course I’ll be doing practice cuts on scrap wood first to assess the results. Just goes to show there’s always more than one way to skin a cat!!…   Read more»

Having said all that I do sometimes drill a series of holes in say a pick up cavity before plunge routing as the dust doesn’t fly as much and it’s easier to clean up. I don’t have a dust extractor…   Read more»

Surface routing bit similar to what and engineer would youe to skim a cylinder head or engine block. Needs to have the router supported on rails either side of the wood. Can be used if you don’t have a planing…   Read more»

Side cut only no bottom cut for laminate trimming. I guess this is the type you will use in your router table.

Brian
Side and bottom cut. You would use this to plunge a small hole maybe 2 mm deep and then side cut.

Hi, thanks for the info, I didn’t mean that I would attempt a full depth cut staring from my pre drilled hole, just each 3mm or so incremental depth cut and gently easing the bit into the material. Yes, some…   Read more»

Brian Starting the router with the bit in a pre drilled hole might be dangerous unless it’s a very big hole. It might cause a kick back. Better to use a bit which has bottom cut and go down to…   Read more»

@tv101 Great that you get the most out of your CNC and, yes, it must allow you to do stuff you couldn’t or wouldn’t otherwise attempt. On a slightly different tack here, most of the routing I’ve done in the…   Read more»

@jamesbisset  I once removed a bridge that was glued with Titebond type glue from a factory guitar using a domestic iron and some brown paper. Heat does soften the glue but you have to be paint and go slowly to…   Read more»

@jamesbisset if a replacement fretboard isn’t a problem then yeh, I’d go with getting it off even if it got ruined.
 
With factory fretboards I’ve managed to remove a couple but titebond seems proper tight! Lol