@kalimar not yet

@kalimar I like routing the trussrod channel while the blank is still squared, I use a fence on my router to follow the edge of the blank.   Then for the actual neck I make the fretboard and once it’s…   Read more»

@kalimar Bummer! If the shank on the router bit is dirty or scratched it can work itself loose. Sometimes you can hear it happen and manage to stop in time.

@kalimar That taper jig looked more complicated than the whole guitar build. 😀
Good tools does half the job, as we say in Sweden.
 

@kalimar old maple and mahogany floor boards make nice necks, just trim off the nail holes. For the body any hardwood will do really, just need to be mindful of the weight, Some woods are really heavy.

@kalimar Over as laminate, it’s about 1.5mm thick or so but I like to match the face of the headstock to the body wood.

@kalimar Totally finet, usually about 7 minimum, my headstocks are usually 7 – 10 or so and all work perfect without string trees. There’s no exact rule on it.

@kalimar
From memory it think it was more about the headstock angle. Think it was 11 deg

@kalimar I just used two short pieces of 2 by 4, which I made sure was sawn straight. The height on my jig is about 88mm. It could be a little lower, but that might depend on the height of…   Read more»

@kalimar push pull is very simple and definitely the easy way to go. With the split wires that go to the split switch, I stick a 2.2k resistor inline, this gives you a fatter single coil sound and les volume…   Read more»

@kalimar Yes, it’s probably smart to make the first build as easy as possible. You can always use the redundant stuff in your future builds 🙂

@kalimar My five cents. I would recommend a Gibson style three way switch if not using a pickguard to mount a 5-way in. The top needs to be very thin for a 5-way switch to work properly. But it can…   Read more»

@kalimar Hi and welcome to the forums, like you I’m just started on my first scratch build, so a bit nervous and excited about the journey ahead. There’s lots of great advice to be had from experienced builders right here…   Read more»

@kalimar I use neck blanks that are 40mm thick and I consider that a minimum thickness for my necks. They have a 9 degree headstock angle in 3+3 format, with a small volute. The first one I built was laminated…   Read more»

@kalimar Are you going to make a set neck or a bolt-on? If you make the set neck like in the course (starting with about the same blank size), you will have plenty of material in the heel area to…   Read more»

@kalimar haven’t a clue buddy, I stumbled in here after I’d started building.

@kalimar But your fender type bridge is easier because you don’t need any neck angle, that bridge you have looks very simple and maybe good for a first go.

@kalimar I’ve done them with a 35mm blank doing a 3 + 3 headstock with a low angle and volute, worked great.

@kalimar If the piece is long enough, you can cut off a piece to glue to thicken headstock or do a scarf joint. It is done all the time.

@kalimar surely can. With P-90s you are gonna need a smaller diameter flush trim bit and with fender style bridge, no neck break angle but completely straight with neck string height of 11.5-12mm as opposed to 16mm for tune o…   Read more»