@rathius go british, pants (underwear) and flip flops and carry on lol

@rathius they’re so cheap now for a home kit, you can start off small and expand it as you go too. Bigger area, more powerful laser, air assist etc. This one set me back £320 but if I was happy…   Read more»

@rathius It might do the trick, I tend to start with thinned down oil based polyurethane which adds a tint, then shellac sanding sealer and finally regular 1k matt clear, car stuff. Looks like an oil finish but very even.

Well I ain’t done anything to the guitar today but there maybe a logo on the headstock quite soon! Got a new toy and of course I’ve been messing with it trying various burn times etc lol
 

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@rathius some people would pay for that kind of sauna experience bud! LOL

@rathius That’s frickin cool! I think they just used really good wood for handles in those days hence why they last

@dhawkes1gmail-com measure the nut, they vary in size. I often just run a 9mm for the nut and the access channel. As long as the main part of the rod is snug it’s fine. Here’s a live Mark did, shows…   Read more»

@robin Marks method is so quick too, takes me no time to do a neck these days.

@rathius put the rotuer down and grab a shinto saw rasp lol
 
I love hand carving the neck
 
But, sometimes like with doing the truss rod channel I’ll use a clamp or clamp and piece of wood as a stop.
 
 

Got the middle aged man belly carve done today, held the binding on to see how it’ll look. Top carve will be down to the binding.
 

You usually need a wider bit for that end, or if you used a rounded router bit you need to square off the bottom of the channel for the blocks. Check the size of the nut with vernier callipers though,…   Read more»

Got most of the routing done today, floyd lines up nice too. Still waiting on a cavity template set that should’ve been here last week before I do any more. Well apart for the belly carve, I could do that…   Read more»