That’s the top carved, by hand of course. Recessed the controls too. Next up I think it’ll be the binding then a lot of sanding.
 

I tend to cut my angle then plane it to the line before adding the fretboard or chopping the end off the neck. That way I can move the fretboard back if needed. I’d imagine it might be you safest…   Read more»

@steveh I solved that issue with some 10mm acrylic sheets off ebay, now I can hold my router very flat while routing. Did it to both my palm routers.
 

@steveh maybe you’re just pushing to hard against the neck?
 
I’ve never had the problem myself so not a 100% sure what’s happened.

@steveh are you sure the bearing isn’t a bit knackered?
 
Also what wood are you using? Bearing whouldn’t be leaving any marks like that unless it’s really soft wood.

@rathius go british, pants (underwear) and flip flops and carry on lol

@rathius they’re so cheap now for a home kit, you can start off small and expand it as you go too. Bigger area, more powerful laser, air assist etc. This one set me back £320 but if I was happy…   Read more»

@rathius It might do the trick, I tend to start with thinned down oil based polyurethane which adds a tint, then shellac sanding sealer and finally regular 1k matt clear, car stuff. Looks like an oil finish but very even.

Well I ain’t done anything to the guitar today but there maybe a logo on the headstock quite soon! Got a new toy and of course I’ve been messing with it trying various burn times etc lol
 

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@rathius some people would pay for that kind of sauna experience bud! LOL

@rathius That’s frickin cool! I think they just used really good wood for handles in those days hence why they last

@dhawkes1gmail-com measure the nut, they vary in size. I often just run a 9mm for the nut and the access channel. As long as the main part of the rod is snug it’s fine. Here’s a live Mark did, shows…   Read more»

@robin Marks method is so quick too, takes me no time to do a neck these days.