[Sticky] What would you like to see next?
As I'm still really a newbie to the guitar building with Mark. I just need to be a sponge and soak up anything and everything so this forum is really helpful.
The workshop tools etc just take time and money to put together. Maybe a run down of the basic tools required or will that be in the courses section ? I have ideas about the basics I need but finding where to get the plans and templates from would be a big help.
Mark you said you were contemplating CNC to sell through the website, any further thoughts on that?
Hey Mike, I can only talk about the courses I’ve done so here goes.
Since meeting Mark (online), I have completed the Design your own Guitar and Build your own Guitar (electric). I have not got to the Acoustic build yet, I’m having too much fun building electric guitars at the moment.
Within the course there is a full list of essential tools and materials needed to complete a guitar build. This is all for electric guitar and to build it at home in a garage or workshop. I can’t put the full list up here as it is part of the paid course (or sold separately in the shop on the website). However I will talk about some of the main tools as part of a review. The tools that will help the most are a bandsaw and a router with the correct blades and bits. Some specialist tools are required such as a levelling beam, straight edge, fret rocker, radius gauges etc. Mark’s checklist gives you everything you need to get started and as you progress you get to know about addition and optional tools for the future. The course also suggests various suppliers of where to purchase tools and materials. Don’t forget the Mark has some materials, products and tools for sale and will help you find what you are looking for.
So my advice is, whichever course you want to do first, buy it! Once you have bought it, spend time with the checklist (included) and get everything on it before starting work on a guitar. Make sure you have in your possession all of the guitar parts you want to use - bridge, tuners, nut etc. - these need to be part of the design stage and will affect the actual building of the guitar. There are lot of different guitar parts out there, so if you design for a particular bridge, for example, and then change your mind for another one half way through the build, it could seriously affect the tuning and/or playability of the guitar.
Everything will be fine though, Mark is the master and he will help you every step of the way. I was really nervous at first as I was doing it online instead of in Mark’s workshop (which I still haven’t been to) but I am now going to be starting my 3rd build. I made a few mistakes along the way but Master Yoda (I mean Mark) is there to help.
Good luck with everything and welcome to the forum.
Online guitar making courses – guitarmaking.co.uk
How about a simplified explanation of how to voice a soundboard? This is definitely one of the black arts of guitar making but I have yet to see any good description of what is trying to be achieved and how to go about it. If the plan is to get the soundboard sounding more like it did without braces then at what point do you stop thinning them down before they disappear altogether? Clearly this is a fairly subjective process but a bit of a practical overview would be fantastic!
How about a simplified explanation of how to voice a soundboard? This is definitely one of the black arts of guitar making but I have yet to see any good description of what is trying to be achieved and how to go about it.
Me neither...I have seen a lot of baloney...I'll see what I can do...
Measure twice, cut once...
I'm working with Mark with the aim of him being able to supply CNC machined templates of (eventually) all the Bailey designs.
If you are making your own template by hand from a drawing then I would suggest either 6mm or 9mm MDF and then bandsaw/jigsaw, plane, scrape and sand it to the desired shape. The better you are at bandsaw/jigsawing the less work you'll have to clean it up but it shouldn't take too long. With curved shapes you will be able to pick up high spots or inaccuracies in the shape more easily by running your fingers along the edge rather than just looking at it. You shouldn't feel any bumps, hollows or strange transitions an you will be amazed at just how small a deviation you can detect and correct this way. Transferring the drawing to the MDF in the first place can be done either by copying the plan and sticking it down on your blank, using a pin to prick the design through into the MDF before joining the dots (it does mean ending up with a perforated plan) or by penciling (B or 2B) over the outline and then rubbing this face down onto you blank. The transferred line won't be photocopier sharp but it should be good enough once you cleaned it up a little by going over it again. You can also hold the plan against a window and pencil the lines onto the back of the plan if there are details that you need to transfer without them being reversed.