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Shaping the body template

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I've been watching through all the videos as I gear up on tools. It looks so easy when the body is shaped with a router using the body pattern. But my question is, how do you get a body pattern that is perfectly curved and smooth?  

I am taking a beginner woodworking class and we cut out a shape using the band saw.  I tried to think of a curvy shape so I could practice what I would use in guitar making, hence the moustache. I am having a hard time "cleaning it up" to get perfect curves. (see attached pic)  I've been using rasps and files and sand paper but there are still a lot of imperfections.  Is this just a practice thing?  Should I just expect to try to make several guitar body patterns before I end up with a keeper? What tools do you use to "clean up" after a bandsaw and get perfect curves on your body pattern?

IMG 5475

 

6 Answers
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Hi pdx,

I'm new to all this as well but from what I've been learning so far I would say that unless you have a spindle sander the best way to do it is by hand using sandpaper and sanding blocks. A flat block for the bigger curves and something like an old broom handle rapped in sandpaper for the tighter curves. Use fine grade sandpaper for the final touches down to your pencil line. I'm sure some of the more experienced guys will be around shortly with some good advice too. 

Cheers,

Russ

😀 👍 

🗝️ "Life's what you make it"🗝️

Anonymous Topic starter 21/10/2020 6:49 pm

@russ
great thanks for the advice!

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Nice Moustache. 😉 😋 👍 

🗝️ "Life's what you make it"🗝️

Anonymous Topic starter 21/10/2020 6:50 pm

@russ
ha thanks. gotta start somewhere right! Might as well start proper with a stache. Like I said I wanted something curvy that would be good practice on the band saw. Those ends made me nervous.

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I think the main tool is “time”.

As long as you’ve got the right line drawn on the template blank, any number of tools can be used to cut the blank to the line.

The trick is *never* to cut past the line.

So, as you say, start with a bandsaw, and maybe aim to leave a safety margin of at least 1mm.

A bobbin sander (aka “up & downer”) is an easy way of removing that margin quickly.  And an equally easy way of sanding through the line.  Use with caution.

So then it comes down to time & patience.  Sanding blocks (varying sizes and shapes) and “feel”.  Your fingers will tell you where you have bumps in the outline more accurately than your eyes.  Sand, feel, sand, feel, etc.  

Online guitar making courses – guitarmaking.co.uk

Anonymous Topic starter 21/10/2020 6:54 pm

@tv101
thanks for the wisdom and advice! Do you recommend a specific brand of "time" and where to buy it? 😛 But yeah I hear ya. I think I will need to practice patience and get good at that.

tv1 tv1 21/10/2020 7:31 pm

@pdxguitar - all the best tools are in the Bailey shop. If you can’t find the “time” shelf, drop him an email and ask where he’s hidden it.
😏

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Use mdf as masters, a bit easier on the sanding. Sometimes too easy that you need to be weary on oversanding. Spindle sander is the most ideal tool but handsanding blocks works just as effectively. Once you have a keeper, it is also a good idea to transfer and route a copy on wood. Just like TV101 said. It takes some time, so put on some good tunes and liesurely sand away.

Anonymous Topic starter 21/10/2020 6:55 pm

@clinton
Thanks for the tips!

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Oh one thing I found that scraping with a scraper or a blade with very little pressure slowly removes the bumps. Just be sure to keep your scraper as square as possible.

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You can run a guide bearing cutter on the edge of MDF as thin as 3mm or 4mm so it can be considerably easier to shape your master template from thin material and then make the thicker 12mm copies from it.

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