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Electric Double Cutaway project help!

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Boo
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I would like to ask for some help in planning a build, just to make sure I am getting everything right. I’m a little nervous about this one and I would appreciate any help you can all give me. I thank you all in advance.

Right guys, I need your help please, please, pretty please!

I’ve got a great build for a great customer coming up and I need it to be absolutely spot on. He wants a double cutaway set neck, angled headstock, 3x3 tuner config, flat top with one humbucker in the bridge. The neck joint should not be visible but also with no cover plate so I’ll have to set the neck in and then put a cap on the body to cover the joint. He wants the whole guitar to be light in weight as he has a bad back but likes to play standing up.

He thinks Alder for the body as it is light and stable but he doesn’t want it chambered either.

What would you guys choose for neck wood?

He is having ebony fretboard 25.5” scale with tree of life inlays (in yellow).

Fretboard - http://www.perleguitars.com/tree-of-life-fingerboard/

The whole thing (body) is being painted Matt black with one Bare Knuckle VHII Bridge humbucker (50mm string spacing), yellow bobbin. He may want this direct mounting into the pu cavity as well (I’m waiting for confirmation. I think he is using Bare Knuckle electrics, cap etc and the guitar is only having 1 volume and one kill switch/button.

Bare Knuckle pu - https://www.bareknucklepickups.co.uk/pickup/humbucker/vhii

He wants a Schaller 3D-6 Bridge in ruthenium or black chrome, it can be adjusted down to 50mm string spacing to match the pu. This bridge is not high, it’s quite a flat hardtail bridge. I haven’t made a set neck guitar that doesn’t need a break angle, due to the bridge needed (such as a tune-o-matic type etc). He is having Schaller locking tuners to match as well.

Schaller 3D-6 Bridge - https://schaller.info/en/bridges/336/3d-6?number=12120600

He wants the whole thing to be very simple but with high end parts for the best tone and best quality working parts.

So, has anyone made a set neck guitar with no break angle?

@markbailey @tv1010101 @david-johnson09 

What would be a good complementary neck wood for his needs?

What would be the neck taper for the 50mm string spacing pickup?

I need to make sure I get all the calculations right before I think about cutting any woods.

If anyone can offer any help and advice I would be very grateful. I need to build up some confidence for this one. On paper it looks like it should be simple but I’m not gonna be cocky.

Make guitars, not war 🌍✌️🎸


   
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tv1
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The neck joint should not be visible but also with no cover plate so I’ll have to set the neck in and then put a cap on the body to cover the joint.

If it's going to be painted, will the paint not hide the neck join?

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tv1
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What would you guys choose for neck wood?

 

Based on the pickup he's chosen, I'm guessing that this is going to be a simple rock machine.

I'd go with Mahogany for the neck.

Mahogany/Ebony is a classic combination, into Alder will be fine.

If you want to get a little bit fancy, you could make a 3-piece Mahogany neck.  That might also be a bit more stable if you orient the grain patterns of the individual pieces appropriately.

If you want to get a little bit more fancy, you could put some contrasting veneer strips between the 3 piece mahogany.  If it's a black body (and ebony board), then some ebony veneer strips might look super cool.

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If it's going to be painted, will the paint not hide the neck join?

@tv1010101 I would say no really. The joinery would have to be out of this world. The only way I think that would work is if filler was used over the joint before primer paint. I would be paranoid that if I just painted over it, the join would show at some point in the future due to expand and contract. I might be wrong. Has anyone else just painted over a joint and it be fine? Is that an acceptable thing to do? 

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Based on the pickup he's chosen, I'm guessing that this is going to be a simple rock machine.

I'd go with Mahogany for the neck.

Mahogany/Ebony is a classic combination, into Alder will be fine.

If you want to get a little bit fancy, you could make a 3-piece Mahogany neck.  That might also be a bit more stable if you orient the grain patterns of the individual pieces appropriately.

If you want to get a little bit more fancy, you could put some contrasting veneer strips between the 3 piece mahogany.  If it's a black body (and ebony board), then some ebony veneer strips might look super cool.

@tv1010101 Yeah, I straight up rock machine indeed! 

Mahogany is a nice choice, especially 3 piece with veneer strips. 

thanks for the input. 

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tv1
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Has anyone else just painted over a joint and it be fine? Is that an acceptable thing to do?

Funny you should ask that JohnBoo ...

20190616 122016
20190616 122713
20190616 122718

 

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tv1
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^^ the spray coat on that is also *really* thin.  I asked the guy to use as little paint as possible, and definitely no grain filler preparation.  if you look at, you can see the grain of the wood on the body.

If you look for it, but *only* if you look for it, you can see the neck join.  But only because the grain pattern is smoother.  If you were aiming for a smoother finish over the body, I reckon the neck joint would become invisible.

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Schaller 3D-6 Bridge - > https://schaller.info/en/bridges/336/3d-6?number=12120600 <

He wants the whole thing to be very simple but with high end parts for the best tone and best quality working parts.

So, has anyone made a set neck guitar with no break angle?

That bridge requires a string height above body of 11.1mm.

The white LP Jr has a string height of 12mm at the bridge.  The neck is just set at a really shallow angle.  IIRC, Mark normally aims for ~16mm string height and so cuts his neck angle to achieve that.  If you want lower height, just reduce the angle.

(Either by trial and error, or draw out the side view and calc it).

🙂

Sounds like a nice project you've picked up ... have fun with it!!

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I agree with @TV1010101 mahogany would be nice. 

Could you not do a bolt on neck but glue it in. I’ve always thought bolt ons should have a slight angle in any case and that’s why some shim them. Personally I have only don a set neck with an angle.

On the paint and join point, does he want grain showing? If so it’s possible but harder (TV has proved that in the great example above). If he doesn’t want grain so it’s more like a commercial glossy paint job then will be filling the whole body anyway so stops the faff of a cap.

last point on the weight issue be careful not to get the body/neck weight balance wrong. Most people hate neck heavy guitars.

Sounds like a great commission Boo...I look forward to photo progress.

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I meant to put in the post ...what I mean by glossy is the same paint and lacquer as one. It’s a similar process but not polished to a shine...it still needs filling (unless you want visible grain).

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I’ve been trying thinking about the bridge. You should still be ok with a set neck but the angle may be shallower than say a W/o bridge. What height is the bridge? 

As long as the neck angle hits at the bridge at the height of the hardware it should be good to go. 

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Sorry @TV1010101 it looks like you already covered that point..

I have too many guitars...said no one in the world..ever!


   
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