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Jonathan Hodgson
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27/04/2021 12:23 pm  

@mattbeels, I recall an article on Taylor electrics, and then man from Taylor was talking about what they considered to be the best setup, which was what they did at the factory.

Part of it as I recall was that the neck was a 12 inch radius, but the strings were given a 15 inch radius at the bridge.

I’ve not looked into why they would do this, but I thought it interesting at the time and relevant in the context of a 14 inch radius bridge and 12 inch radius neck.


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Tej
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27/04/2021 12:42 pm  

Or, not enough to worry about ....

@tv101 so I did the same just and it measured at 0.0863mm, I’ll leave this one alone 😬 but thank you for going to the trouble of pointing how pointless my concerns are in this case!! Not sure why the measurements are so different though I was using Visio as opposed to proper CAD tools.

…on an elaborate journey to turn trees into music.


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Tej
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27/04/2021 1:32 pm  

@jonhodgson if you do find it again please share the article, I had a quick search around but couldn’t lay my hands on it.

…on an elaborate journey to turn trees into music.


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Jonathan Hodgson
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27/04/2021 1:48 pm  

@Tej, I think it was in a copy of Guitarist magazine that I browsed in the shop, I don’t know if it was ever published electronically 


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Rocknroller912
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27/04/2021 2:30 pm  

@tv101

I watched a utube video on this last year, think it might have been Texas Toast Guitars where he radiused a fretboard then put a different curve template over it. A sheet of paper wouldn’t go underneath at roughly the 20th fret. Some players get obsessed about changing the radius as it’s going to be easier to play. Interested to read any one else’s opinion.

Some people call me a tool, others are less complimentary. Tools being useful things.


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Jonathan Hodgson
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27/04/2021 3:00 pm  

@rocknroller912

When you’re talking about actions and fretwork you’re in the realm where a few 100ths of a mm can make a difference. 


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Rocknroller912
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27/04/2021 3:08 pm  

@jonhodgson

Thanks I’m not a electric player although I’ve re fretted a few.

Some people call me a tool, others are less complimentary. Tools being useful things.


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mattbeels
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27/04/2021 3:14 pm  

You'd deepen both E strings the most, then the A & B strings a little less, and leave the D & G slots alone.  

@tej @tv101

It all comes down to the player in the end and how sensitive you are about your setup.

Using a 14” bridge on a 12” board would work of course but you may find it to be a bit flat in the middle.

Let’s say you adjust your bridge and you have the e strings right where you want them. You might notice a bit of a buzz or some choking in the middle or maybe not. The accuracy of your frets plays a part in this too, obviously.

Also the opposite, you adjust to where the middle strings feel right and then your e’s could feel a bit high. 

In my experience matching the radius works best. You could string it up and if it feels and sounds fine, then it’s fine.

However I would stick with the bridge that you have as Gotoh makes great stuff and just try it. If you feel that a 12” would be better then adjust the saddle slots, it’s easy. (See above, tv101 nailed it)

You would do that with your nut files. Take it a little at a time. 

I don’t wanna trip you out so don’t stess about it. If you do decide to adjust them try it first on the high e and b strings. The action typically gets higher towards the low E side and tou may find that’s enough to feel good.

Since you have a wraparound bridge you’ll just have to slacken the string to get it out of the way a take a few swats at it then recheck, it wont take much.

Put a couple of layers of masking tape on the bridge in case of a slip, take your time and you’ll be fine.

I’ve done this on so many guitars it’s ridiculous, even new ones. Those Tuneomatics are never right. They will always have at least one string too high or some too low. The guitar simply plays and feels better when it’s basically the right radius.

In my opinion anyway.

Pratice on scrap...


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Tej
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27/04/2021 3:47 pm  

You would do that with your nut files.

@mattbeels given the tiny difference we’re talking certainly nothing to lose by trying it. I don’t have any nut files, they seem to cost a lot, is there a budget option here given how little use they’d likely get, in this instance I could get a new bridge for the same money, in fact I’d get change.

I’m presuming here I also need to decide what gauge strings I’m going to stick with if we’re talking about filing down saddles precisely?

…on an elaborate journey to turn trees into music.


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mattbeels
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27/04/2021 4:03 pm  

When you’re talking about actions and fretwork you’re in the realm where a few 100ths of a mm can make a difference. 

This is what it comes down to.

I know that the difference between the two are basically nothing, but it all comes down to feel.

It’s amazing how sensitive our hands are when playing the guitar. One neck shape can be perfect and another, almost identical neck can feel different even though they’re basically the same.

The same holds true for your action. A thou or two can make all the difference.

Almost every guitar with a Tuneomatic that I’ve worked on (100’s) has had a collapsed bridge. The string tension on it is enormous especially when players crank the stop tailpiece down to the body, or those with the strings through the body. This collapses the bridge, effectively flattening the radius. I’ve had so many customers tell me that their guitar doesn’t resonate anymore and if it’s a tuneomatic I know immediately what the problem is. I always check them anyway and most of them need to be fixed or replaced. 

Anyway...

Pratice on scrap...


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mattbeels
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27/04/2021 4:06 pm  

Part of it as I recall was that the neck was a 12 inch radius, but the strings were given a 15 inch radius at the bridge.

@jonhodgson

A customer told me about that article but I never read it. Furthermore I never heard of anybody playing a Taylor electric guitar either! 😆😆😆

Pratice on scrap...


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Jonathan Hodgson
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27/04/2021 4:12 pm  

@tej

unfortunately there’s not really that much choice in the world of nut slotting files from what I’ve seen. The cheaper ones I’ve found weren’t really that much cheaper than the best ones, and the alternatives like using welding cleaning files tend to suck at nut slotting 


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Jonathan Hodgson
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27/04/2021 4:15 pm  

@mattbeels

 

Someone must be playing them, they keep making them.

I imagine their biggest seller is probably the T5 though, which is more of a hybrid, and has a rather natty looking narrow pickup,


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mattbeels
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27/04/2021 4:27 pm  

@tej

There are several sources for nut slotting files and if you’re going to build a guitar(s) you’ll have to adjust the nut.

The set from Hosco is high quality and will work for 8’s, through 11’s. You don’t need all the different sizes available unless you’re going into the repair business. This basic, workhorse set of three will cover a lot of ground. The published sizes are guidelines really.

The nut slot needs to be a couple of thou wider than the string to avoid pinching. Those files tend to be thinner at the tip and widen out towards the handle. You can also roll the file a bit side to side to widen a slot. 

https://tonetechluthiersupplies.co.uk/nut-files-set-of-3-electric.html

Pratice on scrap...


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Tej
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27/04/2021 4:28 pm  

@jonhodgson I’ll keep an eye out for discounts and hope for the best. It would be nice to be able to make everything myself in time.

…on an elaborate journey to turn trees into music.


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