I've gouged the neck, i think i will have to excavate it with a chisel and glue in a patch,,,sanding and scraping the whole surface after that..there are several scratches after using a [larger than shown to begin with] plane on the fillet over the trussrod. HOWEVER, what REALLY concerns me is my TOLERANCES UNDER THE TRUSSROD SLOT - i still have to carve the nack round and i've only got about 7mm of wood at the nut and about 10mm at the neck/body join end...if this neck is too thin, i'm afraid it will split or crack the first time pressure is applied with ant trussrod adjustment? i think i have to start over with a new neck? unless Tight Bond will adhere a piece added to the underside so strong that i can salvage this by adding to the neck then carving? What say ye...guys,,,helpful advice sought...thanks <>< Poco7
i think i have to start over with a new neck? unless Tight Bond will adhere a piece added to the underside so strong that i can salvage this by adding to the neck then carving?
Personally, I would go ahead and carve the neck anyway, thats the real fun part of a build to me. If you're woried about it being too thin, and I don't really think that it is, why not fill on the trussrod slot, laminate a piece on to the top face and route the slot again. That way, when you carve the neck, you'll not be carving through the glued joint. If you laminate in a different coloured wood it could be a feature.
The neck is far from trashed - there's plenty of time for that later...
After the neck is carved there is normally only about 3-4mm of wood left under the truss rod at the thinnest point:
If the truss rod depth is 11-12mm and the fretboard is about 5-6mm then the standard thickness of 21mm leaves at least 3-4mm.
So you are good - if I understand correctly...also:
You could just fill the gouges with wood dust and glue then sand flat...as the gouges are not very deep you will only see a very thin dark line from the side when finished...strength will not be badly affected.
Hope that makes you feel a bit better... 😎
Measure twice, cut once...
thanks Robin ...OK, if I went that route, i can see the extra thickness under the truss rod...but, that would mean i would have to laminate my peghead as well, right? ...which means the dominos fall...one thing leads to another; the tuning gears might need to be [repurchased ?] a little higher? right...it would give extra thickness under the truss rod...even 3mm would seem warranted...however, I am still going to carve, Mark has said...and you have said, it shouldn't be a problem...if i don't OVER carve...
i love it...that Blessed Learning Curve !
<>< Poco7
Awesome news...thanks,
the dust 'fill' seems good...should i use super glue or tite bond? does it matter?
I appreciate the good word...my slot is generally 12mm +/- as noted... I'm actually looking forward to the carve...finishing is scary...but another builder told me about the finisher's bible - so to speak..."understanding Wood Finishing, by Bob Flexner" so i'm reading up on it ahead of time...meanwhile, i'm watching all yer instructionals again and again......back to the carve...too much fun...THANK YOU @robin,
i'll keep ya'll posted...Aghhh, the Blessed Learning Curve...
<>< Poco7
Aghhh, the Blessed Learning Curve...
Yep - that's what it's all about!
I don't think it matters what glue you use but I would probably use wood glue to make sure it bonds OK to the fretboard.
Use Titebond or white PVA mixed with FINE wood dust (use 240g paper to make the dust from a matching offcut)
I would mask the surrounding area to minimise cleanup.
- leave overnight before continuing...nobody will ever know 'cept us...and we won't tell anyone 🙂
It will be interesting to see how it works out - looking forward to seeing it carved - make sure to take pics!
Measure twice, cut once...
This is a great community, Jozef...any question can be addressed with good advice, because we're all on this amazing journey together..most of these guys are already experienced builders. I'm only able to work on this part time because of other responsibilities, but one thing that has helped me is realizing that this guitar building is [also] still wood-working...so I'm re-learning several new skills...watching wood-working videos on using chisels and sharpening planes, etc......then ...ya just gotta do it...jump in the mix of it all...it's all about just do it and learn yer lessons...fun stuff....
thanks for the comments.
<>< Poco7
I know I'm a couple weeks late to the party here, but from reading your post and seeing the picture my thoughts were pretty much exactly what Mark and Robin have already said. Filling the large gouge would be fine specially since it looks like the edge is still intact. Then sand flush with the rest of the surface. I would probably leave the smaller gouge until after gluing the fretboard then fill it and sand. Just make sure you work the filler all the way down into the opening using a toothpick or some other thin object to remove any air pockets.
Anyway, you've probably already fixed this by now and I'm writing this for no reason hehe. If you get a chance, let us know how it went.
@Jozefbehr, @markbailey, @wayne_f, @robin,
I followed Mark's advice and created a paste [with regular Tite Bond] by sanding another piece of mahogany - filling, then scraping. of course, the pasting repair made its own problems [high/low spots] when sanding and scraping, you can see applied paste along the truss rod trough, but the mix was better elsewhere - you can't even tell where i filled the other gouges...
I'm watching Mark's videos and will use the caul - practice dry-clamping, and use a couple little nails to hold things tight, etc. I have to schedule an upcoming surgery on my right wrist...Sigh, if it's not one thing it's another!...so things are moving slowly, but one-day-at-a-time...we'll get there...I love it...my first guitar build. gotta say, installing fret wire [correctly] seems tough...but
that's all part of it...so I'm sure I'll get past it... I think i'll just
make a cup of tea.
As always, I appreciate everyone's comments.
<><Poco7
Nice repair job Poco. We learn so much more from our mistakes than we ever do when things go smoothly............although I do hope your wrist repair goes smoothly. Keep on keeping on.
🎶🙂🙏🎸
🗝️ "Life's what you make it"🗝️
I'd like to see the fretboard 'dry-clamped' on - just to check...but it looks pretty good from here 🧐
edit:
Don't worry about any gaps around the fillet - it's just a spacer to stop the rod from rattling.
Measure twice, cut once...
Nice repair job Poco. We learn so much more from our mistakes than we ever do when things go smoothly............although I do hope your wrist repair goes smoothly. Keep on keeping on.
On that basis, I must have learned a *huge* amount!
I’ve used the wood glue & sawdust many a time to sort out little problems.
Now, whenever I’m doing a lot of sanding, I’ll save some of the dust and keep it in a little pot, ready for when it’s needed. I’ve got a few different pots for the different species.
Online guitar making courses – guitarmaking.co.uk
thanks man...
i like this quote from rock'nroller912, "Some people call me a tool, others are less complimentary. Tools being useful things." lol
we're all in this...the community forum really helps...
I'm doing the gluing today
<>< Poco7
@russ, @tv101, @rocknroller912, @markbaily, @wayne_f, @robin, @jozefbehr, @koendb,
I have a serious thing going on with my wrist...but i think i can install the frets, so i pushed ahead;
a pix or two...of the dry clamp and final fretboard attached...moving along like a good Allman Bros riff...Right !
gluing the fretboard to the neck went well. Certainly, appreciate the help with the forum. <><Poco7