@robin Iโve often pondered the question of sinking a bridge into the body
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@brie, sometimes it can be enough just to sink the top of the bridge posts into the body. ย Most posts have a wider bit that sits on top of the body. ย Maybe only 2-3mm thick, but than can be 2-3mm too much.
If I think I might have a bridge-is-too-high situation, Iโll recess those flanges (is that the correct term?) into the body which then allows the bridge to sit right on the body, rather than being 2-3mm above it.
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Online guitar making courses โ guitarmaking.co.uk
@nsjย
Loads more adjustment too, I always fit new strings on a new build. At least it helps rule the problem out if there is a problem.
Another lesson learned, my setting up strings are in the bin now. Trying to save a few quid isn't always the best way. It's always good to get advice from this fantastic group before diving in and fixing the wrong problem.
I'm having a few days at home, so taking advantage of this dry warm weather to do some finishing. I'm using Crimson's Stunning Stains and Wipe On Guitar Finishing Lacquer. My initial plan was for a washed out denim look, but with the yellow of the oak it's turned out sort of turquoise, I'm happy enough with that though.
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A change of plan, it turns out that I didn't like the turquoise after all. I kept going with it and was going put it all back together again because I want to play it. I was telling myself that I'd strip it down sometime in the future to redo it, knowing full well that I never would. Then a sudden rush of blood to the head and set about it with 180 grit on the sander. I had read that the Crimson wipe on guitar laquer didn't need grain filler, while that worked out well on the close grain mahogany, not so on the oak. So the plan now is leave the oak with its natural colour but with the hint of blue in the grain, fill the grain and varnish again. I'm going to leave the blue band around the edge of the top and in the bridge recess as a feature.
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@robin Change of plan is part of the fun. What are your thoughts on the wipe on laquer? I've been looking at it at the Crimson site, but have not seen any reviews or examples before.
I did try this one https://nitorlack.com/en/barniz/top-coats/waterbased-en/nitoraqua-lacquer-black-matt/ ,the clear gloss one.
It built up quite well but felt very plasticky and needed a lot of sanding (because I didn't spray it on).
What are your thoughts on the wipe on laquer? I've been looking at it at the Crimson site, but have not seen any reviews or examples before.
They recommend sanding to at least 320 grit, so I did that and applied it with a soft cotton coth. It goes on easily and fairly smooth and dries quickly. They say to buff it up but don't say what with. I've put several coats on, sanding between them with progressively finer grits, 600 after the first, 800 after the second and so on up to 1500. After my final coat I've sanded up to 3000 grit so far and it looks really good on the mahogany. I think it would have been okay on the oak if I'd grain filled first. I thought it would be thick enough to fill the grain, but obviously not. I'm going to sand to finer grits on the mahogany and polish it to see how that looks. The back and sides for the acoustic that I'm building are from the same mahogany log, so its a bit of experimentation for that too.
Its been nearly 3 months since I've done anything to this build. But I've cleared a bit of shed space at the caravan and got some room to work. The clear space is only temporary though, my first grandchild is due soon, so the space is for pram, pushcair, car seat and all the other stuff that arrives with new babys. But while I'm waiting I've sanded the whisky barrel top again and put four coats of shellac sanding sealer on it. I added a few drops of amber stain in last two coats, I think it has helped to even out the colour on the different oak boards. I'll let that dry and harden a bit before I sand it flat again, then I'm thinking of using Danish Oil for a finish.
I've applied a couple of coats of Danish Oil and tben polished it up with natural bee's wax, so its got all the finishing thats its getting now. It looks a bit rustic but I'm happy with it. I wish I'd made the front with the same mahogany as the back and hadn't used the oak whisky barrel top, so obviously I'm going to have to build one like that. I'm ready for the challenge of assembling it again, unfortunately the hardware isn't in the box I thought it was, I've left it in my shed at home.ย
@tv1
An update on the crack from when I applied pressure in the wrong direction on the thin edge of the hollowed out body. The crack glued up just fine, not even visible now, another successful learning opportunity.
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An update on the crack from when I applied pressure in the wrong direction on the thin edge of the hollowed out body. The crack glued up just fine, not even visible now, another successful learning opportunity.ย
Congrats on that Robin.ย Now you'll have to do an emergency dash back home to collect all the bits to be able to put it together.
I sometimes wonder if the builds-that-go-wrong-but-are-rescued are more satisfying than the ones that just go smoothly from start to finish.
If I ever have a smooth build experience, I'll be able to compare that to my normal experience.
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Online guitar making courses โ guitarmaking.co.uk
Congrats on that Robin.ย Now you'll have to do an emergency dash back home to collect all the bits to be able to put it together.
I sometimes wonder if the builds-that-go-wrong-but-are-rescued are more satisfying than the ones that just go smoothly from start to finish.
If I ever have a smooth build experience, I'll be able to compare that to my normal experience.
I have to go home on Monday anyway, my drug stash (prescription) is getting low. Also our first grandchild is two days overdue and we'll be an hour closer to my daughter's house when the time comes.
As for a smooth faultless built, I can't comment on that either, but I certainly get great satisfaction in the finished product having overcome a multitude of challenges.