Oh, I meant to mention that sticking tape around underneath the kerfed strips and around the neck and bottom blocks when gluing really makes cleaning up a doddle!

Hi again, So, another weekend of work and a few more steps of progress. I have made an external mould with expanding internal clamps and have machined the neck and bottom blocks from maple. I have cut...

I source most of my veneers from Capital Crispin in London. I first bought veneer from Crispins as a student in 1984 when they were based in Curtain Road in Shoreditch and they are some of the nicest ...

Hi again, there’s one other point that is worth making regards using laminated backs and sides. I don’t bang on about eco topics very often (FSC requirements are a constant pain in my day job!) but us...

Hi Mark and thank you for your feedback, The laminated sides have turned out better than I could have hoped. They have sprung by about 0.5mm from the mould ie not at all and, other than a bit of epoxy...

Holy Moly Darren - Amazing pics - Great work! The original Maccaferri Guitars were made this way so why not - I call it posh plywood. It should be stiffer and stronger - both good things - Just have t...

Having got bored waiting for my my bending iron to arrive and having read some articles and watched some videos where laminated backs and sides were actually put forward as having some distinct benefi...

Great build - excellent set of pictures - thanks!

I must say that my experience with wipe on poly is based on usage with maple, pine and rosewood.... Not with wenge.... Too bad you didn't get the result you're looking for....

Hey Herb - It would be great to see some pics? ? Don't be surprised if it gets darker with more coats... ?

I used an oil-based poly varnish from Toolstation and mixed it 50/50 with white spirit. Unfortunately wenge seems to darken considerably at the slightest sniff of solvent. Even the wax darkened it ini...

OK - I've tried a 50/50 poly/white spirit rub. Nice finish but still darkens the "Wenge" considerably. But... I think I may have found the answer... Sanding to > 320 grit and then Renaissance Wax. ...

Damn wish I had an uncle like that! Shame they are already cut though...such is life... As you said you could use the pieces for acoustic guitar bridges - also: Archtop Finger Rest, bridge and tailpi...

Hi Mark, Thanks for the feedback and I’ll post some pics shortly. I’ve just been too busy to take any! I seem to be preparing to make a batch of guitars as for example, the work involved in machining ...

Cheers John - Thanks for sharing that... Not my cup of tea but someone will find it useful ?

I would do that by routing first and then finishing by hand with a chisel (*edit: Gouge) - without serious machine like CNC I'm not sure how else it could be achieved. Maybe someone else can chime in?

Attachment : Trem.jpg Want to add a Trem to your dream guitar design? GREAT! I've just added the drawings to the Design Your Own Guitar course. Take a look and let me know if you have any Q's ? .....

Great points Darren, thanks... oil-based it is then. I had already completed the guitar so the finish lightening project was an after thought - it's not a big deal. What was a big deal was my homemad...

Hi, If it soaks in more it will darken more. You can’t have both depth of finish and no darkening as they are intrinsically linked. Maybe you should just consider using a lighter wood and experimentin...

to my finishing expert friends... I have a mind to try the water-based Poly to avoid darkening the wood as much as possible. Is this a bad idea? If I dilute it more and do more coats will it soak in b...