Nobody should under sell themselves if they have taken the time to go through all of of that to produce top quality paintwork. It’s not to be arrogant about it but knowing your worth.
Agreed @Boo
"You're not paying me for the couple of hours I'll spend painting that thing. You're paying me for years of experience I've earned, so that I can paint that thing how you want it painted" !!
😉
Online guitar making courses – guitarmaking.co.uk
I’ve spent all afternoon sanding this Sun King (Atum Ra) guitar down so it can be polished. I did the majority of it with the power sander with a 2000 grade disk (wet sanded) but spent a long time getting it flat with a semi hard block and 3000 grade paper. I am being so careful at this stage not to rub through. Sand a bit, dry a bit, check a bit, repeat. Time consuming and repetitive but that’s the job. 👍
Make guitars, not war 🌍✌️🎸
Just. Look. At. That.
😎 😍 😎 😍
Online guitar making courses – guitarmaking.co.uk
And which do you prefer???
😆 😆 😆
What have you got planned for this lot then? Have you got enough guitars for all that paint?
@tv101 I love it all. ✨😁✨
I have all sorts planned and no I don’t have enough guitars for it all. That does mean that I need to get building them though.
For now, I need to practice painting so I’m just going to paint anything until I’ve got the guitars. I need to learn more about the paints and flakes (remember I am new to them) so it’s a case of paint, paint, paint and paint some more.
I’ve just got a small metal water bottle in a mixed flake at about 70:30 (large:small), I’m just adding a bit of abstract patterning and I’ll try out some more of my new candy paint, different colours than the guitar. The reason for doing this is that I need to know what the colours do under certain conditions and how they blend together.
Stuff to be painted.
Make guitars, not war 🌍✌️🎸
Do you have to scuff up the water bottle and those tins a bit for adhesion?
@mattbeels Yeah, anything you are applying paint to needs a “keyed” surface to cling to. Even emulsion that you paint your walls with. A plasterer can plaster a wall and polish it like a mirror but paint will not stick to it, so they only smooth it to a certain level, otherwise they have gone to far. In fact, if you watch a plasterer work, he/she will apply a mortar mix to the wall first, get it fairly smooth and then scrape cross hatch marks into it, that is a key. It’s the same principle with paint, it’s a mechanical bond. There are paints that don’t need it if you are applying the same type of paint and it is clean and free from grease, dirt and other detritus, paint like nitro cellulose. Nitro is chemically bonded instead of mechanically bonded, it melts together on a molecular level.
In general though, whether the substrate is metal, plastic, wood, glass, it needs some kind of key and you can use a spray on adhesion promoter too. Failing to prep anything by not keying the surface and cleaning it will result in the paint you apply pealing off somewhere down the line. I’ve worked on many cars where someone has done a bad paint job by not prepping the surface and it’s all flaking off, fast job, easy money, cowboys. Different substrates will require their respective primers/adhesion promoters to help each layer stay in place. If it’s metal, use a metal primer. If it’s plastic, use a plastic primer.
All should be scuffed up. Scuff the substrate, apply the primer, sand the primer (this smooths and flattens it as well as giving the next paint layer something to hold on to), apply the colour, apply the clear, sand the clear, polish the clear. Some of these step may have to be repeated if any problems occur, such as rubbing through when sanding.
So that is the process for painting stuff. 👍
Make guitars, not war 🌍✌️🎸
Do you have to scuff up the water bottle and those tins a bit for adhesion?
@mattbeels The short answer is........ Yes. 🤣
Make guitars, not war 🌍✌️🎸
Thanks for the detailed answer. I knew some of that but not everything so all good. I figured that you would probably have to key metal up a bit, just wanted to be sure.
Dare I ask which grit or are you then going to explain peoper technique and how sandpaper is manufactured? 😂😂😂
Practice on scrap...
Dare I ask which grit or are you then going to explain peoper technique and how sandpaper is manufactured? 😂😂😂
@mattbeels I can explain that if you want. 🤣
With metal, whether you are applying filler or primer, 80 grit. After a few coats of primer have dried, sand it back through the grades and finish with 600 grade. It’s now ready for base coats and top coats. 👍
There you go, is that succinct enough for you? 🤣👍
Make guitars, not war 🌍✌️🎸
can you explain why the ordinary tins of chameleon paints seem to be so much more expensive than the spray cans? I'd expect it to be the other way round if anything.
Custom Paints Chromacoat
400ml spray can £19.99
500ml tin £134.99
@jonhodgson Going back to this question Jon, I received a newsletter by email this morning that is relevant to this topic and backs up my answer. Here they are talking about comparison between the amount of product coverage form a rattle can compared to brush on but the principal is the same as comparing it to a tin of paint for a spray gun.
Here was my answer:
Yeah, rattle cans don’t actually have that much paint in them, a lot of the contents is the propellant. It’s also “ready to spray”.
My screenshot below backs this up. 👍
Make guitars, not war 🌍✌️🎸
