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NDakota
(@ndakota)
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14/06/2021 4:34 pm  

Hi Everyone!

I did some experiments during the lockdown and built up a lap stell from some scrap wood I had in my cellar. Started to be only for fun, but I kinda like what came out! 

I was looking online for a finish that would give some cool natural look, satin to matte, protecting the wood at the same time. The idea was something like this:

image
image

I was looking at Danish Oil, found a tutorial on Youtube, where the wood is sanded up to 240grit then 4 coats of danish oil are applied on it starting with the first coat wetting the wood a lot and progressively lowering the amount of oil and wiping it down after it soaked in the wood. Fourth coat would be applied using 600grit sandpaper and then a last finishing coat with a wipe again. 

I think I could use some of your experience here to understand what would be a nice touch. The wood is part of a plank that is used by builders for scaffolding, it should be pine if I'm not wrong. Budgeting wise, well consider where the wood is coming from lol.

Here's some pics of my work, don't pick on me, it's my first build and I did it just for having some fun hahaha!

 

How it was when I started:

1

 

Pre-assembled:

2

 

First coat of water-based protective layer:

3

 

Thanks if you can give me any advice!


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Koendb
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14/06/2021 9:27 pm  

@ndakota Looking good so far! looks indeed like pine. I don't know if those knots will be a problem or not on a lap steel. On a regular guitar or bass neck, you don't want that. 
Concerning the finish, I have nothing to add as I have no experience with Danish oil yet but usually you get a matte or satin finish quite easily with oil.

Success with your build!


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NDakota
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14/06/2021 9:52 pm  

Thanks @koendb!

I've never done anything like this, so I'll try Danish Oil on some scrap wood that was left over the build to try it on, unless I'll get any other more suggestions from someone more expert than me!

I'm glad you liked it! I guessed it should not have been a problem because in a Lap Steel the neck is never touched. The Frets are actually only printed on aluminum to give guidance, but never touching:

image

I only hope it won't get cracked with temperature, humidity ecc...


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Koendb
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14/06/2021 10:01 pm  

because in a Lap Steel the neck is never touched.

I think the problem is stability of the neck ( twisting /warping ). But perhaps someone with more experience can discard my concern?


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Tej
 Tej
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15/06/2021 3:06 pm  

@ndakota I’ve got some of this I’ll be using:

https://www.crimsonguitars.com/products/penetrating-guitar-finishing-oil/

Have a look on YouTube as there was a product demonstration/tutorial for it somewhere. From the reviews 3 or 4 coats would leave a nice satin sheen on it.

I’ve only done a small test over dyed mahogany so I can’t show you what it might look like on pine.

…on an elaborate journey to turn trees into music.


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Jonathan Hodgson
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17/06/2021 5:47 pm  

One warning with oil finishes is to be careful with your application cloth/paper disposal. The curing is pretty exothermal and apparently, it's not unknown for things to catch fire if you just lob the rags in the bin.


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Tej
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17/06/2021 7:26 pm  

@jonhodgson yes I’ve been warned about that before, no idea how likely it is to actually happen but not worth the risk to find out !

…on an elaborate journey to turn trees into music.


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NDakota
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20/06/2021 6:00 pm  

One warning with oil finishes is to be careful with your application cloth/paper disposal. The curing is pretty exothermal and apparently, it's not unknown for things to catch fire if you just lob the rags in the bin.

Yeah i heart of that. I wondering what may be the good way of disposing it, i guess throwing it out in an extinguished firepit may do the job..

By the way, what about liquid wax? What would be the effect of that finish? I think oil may still be better, but I wanted to do some tries..


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Jonathan Hodgson
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20/06/2021 7:19 pm  

@ndakota there's a video where Chris from Highline Guitars talks about how he handles oil soaked rags (or, more precisely, "handled" as he now uses alternative finishes when he wants the oil look). You may be able to find it.

If I recall correctly, as he's working he throws them in a bucket of water, then later he takes them out and lays them out separately and leaves them for a while (probably overnight) till they're dry, at that point the exothermic reaction would be pretty much over (I can't remember if he took any further precautions).

 

 


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Robin
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21/06/2021 10:08 am  

@ndakota

This is the finish that I got on pine with Danish Oil, I think it was three coats. As for disposal of the oiled cloths, I layed mine out on a concrete slab to dry, once they're dry you can bin them.

20201113 170016

 


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NDakota
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21/06/2021 10:15 am  

That's nice! I think I'll give it a bit of colour more cause I like the brown rather than that white.. though the effect seems good and with some coats more and good sanding it can also become more satin you'd say?


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Rocknroller912
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21/06/2021 4:26 pm  

@robin

Good finish, Danish Oil is my favourite and good point about the cloths. I know a violin maker who burned his workshop down by throwing wet cloths in a bin full of wood shavings

Some people call me a tool, others are less complimentary. Tools being useful things.


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Robin
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22/06/2021 12:15 am  

@ndakota

I quite like the white colour of the pine, the other side is brown though.

20201113 165902

 

 


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NDakota
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22/06/2021 7:45 am  

That's beautiful! That is what i would like to get! Is that still pine or you combined 2 types of wood? If it is still pine how did you get that color?


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Robin
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22/06/2021 9:21 am  

@ndakota 

22/06/2021 7:45 am 

 

That's beautiful! That is what i would like to get! Is that still pine or you combined 2 types of wood? If it is still pine how did you get that color?

No that's not pine. The top is 12mm thick mahogany, again with three coats of Danish Oil. It started of looking like this.

20200901 172911

 


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