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syntholabo
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29/08/2019 11:23 pm  

Well on the way now. Roseline (of Roslin) guitars lives!

Thanks to team Bailey for holding my hand via all the amazing videos and attention to communications. 

Scarf jointed maple neck and truss rod assembly:

IMG 2338
IMG 2340

Maple gymnasium floorboard rosette with BW binding:

IMG 2339
IMG 2523

Braced plates:

IMG 2522
IMG 2521

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mark bailey
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30/08/2019 2:01 pm  

Thanks - it's a pleasure!

Great pics - damn she is looking beautiful..

Measure twice, cut once...


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syntholabo
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31/08/2019 11:31 am  

Cheers. Meant to say too that it is a 19" body based on a small 1950's Gibson with this beautiful shape.

Couple of areas of novice mistakes however- one of my back braces must not have been flat on the arch, so I have an area of non-contact on one stretch. Should I fill it? It is not mobile so I think there is enough glue at the contact points.

 I chose to hide glue the half-lap X-brace joint due to a bit of over filing, which set before I could manipulate it flush to both sides of the bridge plate... tiny gap on one side unfortunately.

One last question:

The Platanus acerifolia (London Plane) I have for back & sides has the following spec on wood database ( https://www.wood-database.com/london-plane/). How do these data guide the soaking time for bending sides and final back thickness (currently right on 0.110")?


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mark bailey
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31/08/2019 2:20 pm  

How do these data guide the soaking time for bending sides and final back thickness?

Absolutely no idea...but...

I have used Lacewood (London Plane) for sides and the bending was not a problem - V Easy...

Nowadays I just Dampen the sides just before bending - no need to soak for any length of time. Sometimes soaking for too long can damage the fibres and

I would leave the back at .110" - Lacewood (London Plane) is not as strong as Rosewood so my advice is: don't make it any thinner.

 

Should I fill it?

Your call...Maybe mask around and run a tiny amount of superglue in there?

Measure twice, cut once...


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syntholabo
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01/09/2019 6:22 pm  
IMG 2342

That took bloomin' ages! So much longer than I remember with my maple sides from the B.Y.O. number 4.

Was at it for almost three hours, with the iron sizzling. The waist is so difficult to persuade round the bend.


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syntholabo
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04/09/2019 8:46 pm  

Final assembly

IMG 2559

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syntholabo
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08/09/2019 10:28 pm  
IMG 0589
IMG 0585

Final sand

IMG 0588

I guess this red transformation is due to the hide glue on the X-brace, impregnating the PVA on the half-lap gause re-inforcement?

IMG 0590
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syntholabo
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08/09/2019 10:33 pm  
IMG 0596

Ready to rope up, heel block gap closed as best as possible. 

Wish I'd left a bit more sticking up, as I couldn't sand all of it.

IMG 0598

Inner tube from a car tire from the local garage.

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syntholabo
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10/09/2019 9:44 pm  
IMG 0601

Trimming the plates on the recycled upside down manual drill press.

I needed a router collet extension to reach low enough on my jig.

IMG 2352
IMG 0605

Craddle for assembled body fixed with steel holdfasts to bench.

IMG 0608

Routed tailpiece channel

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syntholabo
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10/09/2019 9:48 pm  
IMG 0635
IMG 0612

Trimmed mortice slot

IMG 0615
IMG 0630

R O S E L I N E 

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syntholabo
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10/09/2019 9:54 pm  
IMG 0633
IMG 0634

Neck angle setup.

The bridge clearance is about 5mm.

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mark bailey
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11/09/2019 10:43 am  

YES!! She's looking good...but 5mm is way too high...aim for 2mm

I think you should be able to reduce the angle OK and don't forget - You can push the neck in a little further to create a small step - this will be removed later on (or you can do it now if it helps).

It is a bit hard to see from here though - Those pics are super low res - can you upload a better one? - an angle like in that last pic would be good.

Measure twice, cut once...


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syntholabo
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12/09/2019 12:06 pm  

Crappy digital technology I'm afraid.

This 2mm clearance- I would say- is not physically achievable, in the land of material science! The soundboard arching will always be in the way.

Leaving a bigger step at the body-neck junction just causes the bridge clearance to go up. >:(

Perhaps an exploratory sand of the under-fingerboard area is in order- but I can see myself going for ever to reach 2mm bridge clearance.

This is all a shame, because the neck joint is now almost perfect, and the heel is carved.

 


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mark bailey
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12/09/2019 7:44 pm  

I've a feeling that there is still some confusion going on here...It is really difficult to work out the problem without some better images - you are more than welcome to pop round and bring it for me to look at - if at all feasable...cannot remember where you are but the offer is there...

Leaving a bigger step at the body-neck junction just causes the bridge clearance to go up. >:(

hmm ...Sounds a bit like you got the step going the wrong way...

Try pushing the neck in further so the body is a tiny bit higher than the neck fretboard gluing suface (up to about a 1mm or so)

You can sand the soundboard a little under the fretboard but make sure it is going to be in the right place and be very careful not to overdo it.

Be especially careful not to damage the rosette

If I was you I would try and get it down as close as possible without ruining anything and then move on.

If the final clearance is greater than 2mm then you could just make a chunkier bridge - not ideal but better than oversanding it to death...

arg..

I wish I could get a hold of it to see what is going on but I'm sure you'll work it out...

a couple of Q's:

Did you glue the heel block to the soundboard - on a flat workboard?

Did you assemble the soundboard using a radius board and go bar deck or did u stick to my method?

 

 

Measure twice, cut once...


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syntholabo
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13/09/2019 9:26 am  

No confusion Master- just hard reality of shapes!

Heel block was glued square to soundboard on flat workboard, using cam clamps.

I have the appropriate step in the soundboard, and a good gentle arch in top.

It is all as is intended right now, as far as I can understand. The soundhole will always push a straightedge upwards.

Would love to see how its possible.

 


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