To the untrained eye, it goes unnoticed. Looks like it’s just part of the grain pattern.
@clinton That sounds like a great idea, I will try that one day. For this one, it’s all getting painted in black so everything will be covered anyway. I love your method though Clinton, thanks for then info.
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I’m very tempted to make a new neck and use this fretboard for this project. I might save it for a project that is only showing off beautiful wood though, rather than a painted guitar body. I may plan a 24 fret neck for this pale moon ebony fretboard so I get the most out of it. It’s rather nice. I just have to decide which side to use and where to put the centre line to get the most figure out of it.
Make guitars, not war 🌍✌️🎸
Thanks @russ and @forcesterbill Yeah I think keeping as much of the figure is a must really but also keeping some of the plain pale stuff too. I’ll definitely need to consider other woods carefully and I hear the point about having a more plain body maybe as a contrast to the figured fretboard. I think I will shelve it for now and take my time with the planning. I’ll look around the internet for inspiration.
Make guitars, not war 🌍✌️🎸
Looks like it may need careful handling - was it waxed when you got it?
https://www.rarewoodsusa.com/product/ebony-black-white/
Measure once........ Measure again......... Sod it - make tea!
Wowza! What is that? How thick is it?
@clinton It’s 7mm thick so I can’t book match it. I will not be wasting any of it. Whatever doesn’t make the cut (do you see what I did there? 😉), will be used for inlays etc.
Make guitars, not war 🌍✌️🎸
What do you think @markbailey Do you think this fretboard needs to be waxed or is it safe now to store it in the usual way. I'm guessing problems occur during the drying process but I think that has already been done. See pictures above. Thanks.
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Oops! 🤣🤣🤣🤣 I’m going from one mistake to another at the moment. It’s all good fun.
I was routing a cavity for a string ferrule block in the back of this guitar, using a set of templates. There is a main outer template and two inner ones that get inserted in and used in sequence. The first one is used to route the main depth, about 17mm and the second one is slightly bigger and is only used to cut down 2mm, this is for the lip on the ferrule block (see pics). The router has an 18mm top hat and a 10mm bit in the collet. Yes I am aware that the string holes I drilled are not in a straight line at all, it’s one of the reasons I use ferrule blocks, they cover them up and the bridge covers them up on the front of the guitar. 🤣 I need one of those bit pillar drills that @markbailey has.
Can you guess how on Earth I managed to make this mistake? (See pics) 🤣
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Routers are horrible things. Aren't you painting this one Boo, I'm sure you can fix that and hide it.
@robin Yeah I’m painting it so I can easily do a repair and it will never be seen.
I know what you mean about routers but I’ve got used to them now but I still make mistakes (I always work safely with them though).
To use an analogy, after hearing an American “patriot” talking about his assault rifle recently, “A router is not dangerous so long as the person holding it is not dangerous”. 🤣
Make guitars, not war 🌍✌️🎸
“A router is not dangerous so long as the person holding it is not dangerous”.
You're absolutely right Boo, all the routing errors on my first build were entirely my fault, not the router's. This time round I'm taking alot more care, and getting better results. 🙂
I guess if you could get the fretboard off you might be able to add a chunk of wood onto the neck and then re-carve but it might take as long as starting again hopefully reusing the fret board.......
Measure once........ Measure again......... Sod it - make tea!