Build #2 is my 3rd design and a double-cut. The shape was inspired by the pick guard on a 355. The odd looking smile at the bottom is a carve that’s 70mm long and drops 10mm at the bottom edge. This has a cherry drop top which I learned how to do from Mark’s YouTube channel 😁. Now to go back there and watch the scarfed neck video a bunch of times.
Interesting shape, and always good to see something new.
How thick is your top?
Just wondering whether the drop top would put a lot - too much? - stress on the curved line.
If I'm remembering Mark's video correctly, his was more of a Strat-style drop, so it was along a straight line which, instinctively, feels as though that would put less stress on the wood.
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@tv101 the cherry was a bit shy of 4mm and I did the carve just like Mark shows in the video.
I decided to do a scarfed neck because I wanted to do a 6 inline headstock but all my mahogany stock is about 3/16” shy of 2” and on a 3 x 3 headstock I end up with a small section at the top of the headstock that isn’t as thick as the rest. This is the free mahogany I was given from a local mill so I can’t complain really. 😂
However, earlier this year I was able to take advantage of a sale StewMac was having and purchased 10 quartersawn 1” neck blanks for a little over $130. I planned to use these for scarfed necks so I could make neck blanks for 6-inline non-parallel headstocks. Plus the 2” mahogany neck blank I purchased from them last year cost more than the 10 1” blanks themselves so buying those was a bit of a no brained. 😁
However, earlier this year I was able to take advantage of a sale StewMac was having and purchased 10 quartersawn 1” neck blanks for a little over $130.
#thats-not-fair
$13 a neck?? That's a steal.
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@tv101 yeah I know. They work best for bolt on necks and do require planing on at least one surface. I have an electric hand planer with an edge guide so I can plane the surface in a few passes extending the guide further. That way I’m always riding the same edge. 😁
Build #2 is my 3rd design and a double-cut. The shape was inspired by the pick guard on a 355. The odd looking smile at the bottom is a carve that’s 70mm long and drops 10mm at the bottom edge. This has a cherry drop top which I learned how to do from Mark’s YouTube channel 😁. Now to go back there and watch the scarfed neck video a bunch of times.
Looks good....
Jozef Behr
Interesting shape, and always good to see something new.
This shape was inspired by the shape of the pickguard from a 355. Normally I don’t care for pickguards but when I put 2 together…, well this is what I ended up with. 🤣
Speaking of inspiration, I had one guy that asked about a bass shaped similar to old delivery trucks from the 30s & 40s after he saw my first guitar. Don’t think he was really serious though as we’ve not discussed it anymore. 🤷🏼♂️
So using that new fretboard caul I made earlier today, I now have the fretboard glued on.
Decided to just carve neck instead of using that large profiling bit. Just not ready to try it out yet. 😬 Maybe the next one. I also decided to go with a 3x3 headstock again. Build #3 I’ll do a 6-inline with a FR style tremolo. Hopefully. 😁
Decided to just carve neck instead of using that large profiling bit. Just not ready to try it out yet.
Get some neck-blank sized scrap timber and try the bit on that first. Then get another bit of scrap and try it again, before you let it anywhere near a *real* (nice, expensive) neck blank!
Online guitar making courses – guitarmaking.co.uk
Here’s me carving the neck. Had to take a break before I finished. 😂
And here’s a picture of the fretboard with abalone inlay dots and ready for some clear. But should I shoot satin or gloss? Either one will bring in another unfinished project or two.
Update on build #2.
Shot the clear yesterday. I shoot 7 coats of water-based lacquer on each build. First 2 are light then the rest are heavier. Having a bit of an issue with overspray and I think that’s due to the body being too close to the floor. Gonna have to rig up a way to raise it when I’m spraying the body.
Also on this one I blended the neck into the body and really opened up easy access to the higher frets.
I normally hang them from a tuner hole. Hook them on a wire clothes hanger. I had made a stand to hang them from but I need to have it hanging higher than I have. The other alternative is to make a booth style floor filter/exhaust fan kinda thing. That would involve enclosing the exhaust fan, running a duct down the wall and extend out onto the floor. Have a grate with a filter underneath and problem solved. And then I’d have the start of a dedicated spray booth. Hmm I kinda like the sound of that.
INTRODUCING THE LATEST MODEL FROM GLASSCOCK GUITARS!!!!
Here’s the latest original guitar design from the Glasscock Guitars design studio.
Meet Jester!
Jester is a slim waisted double cut solid body electric guitar. Designed by Gary and inspired by the pick guard from a Gibson ES-355.
This particular expression of the Jester model is named Cherry Bomb due to its North American pomelle cherry top. Remainder of body made from mahogany sourced from Cox Interior. Neck is hand-carved from mahogany from the same source. (Thanks again Cox Interior). The carve at the bottom of the body was also inspired by the shape of the 355 pick guard but is also a nod to Rickenbacker guitars 😁. The fretboard is maple with abalone inlay dots and what I call a dirty finish as it gives the wood a kinda dirty look. This is topped off with a bone nut.
She sports Schaller pickups, chrome pickup rings, 3-way switch with a volume and tone for each pickup. The volume and tone controls are all push-push pots wired in my usual way where each volume will split the respective pickup from double-coils to single coils. The bridge tone when switched puts the 2 pickups into a phase shift state (think Led Zepplin Kashmir), and the neck tone switches between parallel (standard wiring configuration) and series which gives a distorted overdriven tone. Lots of tonal options.
