Well you’re cutting the standard fret slot where the nut goes anyway, the jig usually has it as one of the notches to line up so in theory that already happens. Certainly never had a problem yet myself using a…   Read more»

Personally I’d try it and learn as I went. With spalty wood on bodies I use thin superglue in any softer areas, let it soak in till it stops absorbing. I’d be well up for trying that on a fretboard….   Read more»

Started getting finish on, the colour is amazing.
 

So close to getting the wood colour lined up, it’ll do though

Logo done
 

@swepri After watching many vids I’ve found for 24.75 scale 630mm for the high E and add 3mm for the low works perfect. And for 25.5 scale I just do the 25.5 and add 3m for the low E. So…   Read more»

Hey up, I’m about 80 miles further North, Glenisla direction. Welcome to the forum.

Looks even better now! Proper posh
 
I used superglue, got coverded but it’s on there now lol
 

That’s the top carved, by hand of course. Recessed the controls too. Next up I think it’ll be the binding then a lot of sanding.
 

I tend to cut my angle then plane it to the line before adding the fretboard or chopping the end off the neck. That way I can move the fretboard back if needed. I’d imagine it might be you safest…   Read more»

@steveh I solved that issue with some 10mm acrylic sheets off ebay, now I can hold my router very flat while routing. Did it to both my palm routers.
 

@steveh maybe you’re just pushing to hard against the neck?
 
I’ve never had the problem myself so not a 100% sure what’s happened.

@steveh are you sure the bearing isn’t a bit knackered?
 
Also what wood are you using? Bearing whouldn’t be leaving any marks like that unless it’s really soft wood.