I bought a radiused and slotted fretboard from LMII but it doesn't have a taper, is there a recommended way to put the taper in? I'm guessing I want to mark the taper and rough cut it on the bandsaw but is it possible to profile it with the router or do I need to sand down the rest? I have access to a planer as well but I'm worried it would rip out at the fret slots.
You could:
Cut it roughly on the bandsaw and use a router to trim it BUT as you note it would be a bit awkward with the radius.
Taping a small piece of wood (2x6mm binding) along the opposite edge of the fretboard might help hold the router roughly level...
but...
it is probably just as easy to do it 'by hand' - It is a 5-10 minute job and MUCH safer for you and your fretboard...
- Mark it out as accurately as possible - a scribe is better than a pencil.
- Cut it as close as you dare with the bandsaw
- Sand to size with a 60g sanding block
- Continue until you have reached to desired measurements.
Even easier if you have a sanding board - then you can simply rub the fretboard onto the board.
Make sure to check OFTEN with a straightedge and calipers - and don't forget to let us know how it goes!!
Measure twice, cut once...
Adam Topic starter
29/11/2021 8:47 pm
Thanks @markbailey, 'by hand' looks like the best route. Did you get my contact form message? I don't seem to be able to access the course content.
I have access to a planer as well but I'm worried it would rip out at the fret slots
On my three builds so far I've used Mark's pre radius slotted tapered fretboards so can't offer any hands on advice. I think though, that with my experience with routers so far, I'd be concerned about the router chipping the slots too.
I ended up in the exact same place, except, I was the idiot who created the board from a blank, and radiused it before I cut the taper... Mark's solution is how I handled it... successfully so far.