I decided I should have my own 'brand' because, for me, a guitar just is not finished without a logo 🙂
Not that I want to sell or really custom build guitar as a professional. I just want to get as close to pro as I can.
Let me know what you think!
These have been finished with nitro satin clear coat.
Note that I only have coated the top of the headstock in lacquer., the rest of the neck, sides and back of the headstock have been finished with shellac. Shellac is not usable to mask the edges of the decal, it even makes it worse - I've tested 🙂
Next pics are the parts casters. decals have been applied,but not yet coated with a clearcoat
a guitar just is not finished without a logo
I've never put anything on my own-build headstocks, and I agree with you that they do look like something's missing.
Perhaps our eyes just expect to see something there because *every* guitar we ever see has some sort of logo there, so now it looks wrong without one.
My headstock design is fairly compact though, so there'd be no space for anything big.
I'd say your logo works. It's distinctive. The K part works on its own and when its integrated with the brand name. All looks good to me 👍
I can't comment on the finishing questions though, as I've absolutely zero experience there!
Online guitar making courses – guitarmaking.co.uk
Let me know what you think!
@koendb I think your decals and logo designs are superb, they really make the guitars look complete. It’s something I’ve been meaning to sort out for myself but it keeps getting put back. Now I’ve seen this, I’ll start thinking about it again. You could use acrylic lacquer or even 2K clear from rattle cans to seal them in too, I doesn’t just have to be nitro. If you ever choose to try a 2K rattle can, make sure you have several headstocks that need doing so you get several done in the same session and you don’t waste any of it. It only has a short open time once you have released the catalyst in the can so using as much as you can is more economical. Why 2K? Well, it’s more robust than the others and is easily sanded and polished, and you will get better coverage to bury the edges of your decals. Whatever spray can you use, you will have to apply it, let it dry and then sand it back to sand out those decal edges and then polish it back up. 2K is much easier to build up a few thick layers in a very short space of time compared to nitro which is lots of thin coats, which would take longer to cover your decals.
Hope this helps you a bit. 👍🎸
Make guitars, not war 🌍✌️🎸
I think your logos look really good and professional. What have you made your logos from?
The design is done in inkscape. The logo itself is a bit stolen and altered to make it my own.
The black logo's have been printed by myself on laser waterslide decal paper and sealed with a clear coat.
The white, gold and silver logos are ordered at TLC Guitar goods in holland. It is a lot finer then my decal paper and is easier to blend in.
I ordered an A5 size of decals with a mixture of gold, silver and white logos, in 2 different sizes, to be able to mix and match.
You could use acrylic lacquer or even 2K clear from rattle cans to seal them in too, I doesn’t just have to be nitro
True! But nitro clear is what I had at my disposal when I did these. The 2 lacquered necks , I will use acrylic , though, as I think the finish on those necks are not compatible with nitro. Or can I? Can I use Nitro over other types of lacquer and/or the other way around? Cause I thought nitro bites itself into underlying layers 🤔
True! But nitro clear is what I had at my disposal when I did these. The 2 lacquered necks , I will use acrylic , though, as I think the finish on those necks are not compatible with nitro. Or can I? Can I use Nitro over other types of lacquer and/or the other way around? Cause I thought nitro bites itself into underlying layers 🤔
@koendb I would say if you are going to mix and match different paints then test it on something first and allow everything to dry and cure properly before attempting it. 2K is pretty much indestructible, it will go over most things with no problems although there can be the odd fry up so always best to test. This usually happens when someone else has used something already that you don’t know about, usually some crappy acrylic or something. But if you are the one that’s painting it and you know all of the products you are putting on for the first time and you’ve done a load of tests, you should be good to go.
I might do some tests myself, I feel a geeky test plan coming on.
Make guitars, not war 🌍✌️🎸
The logo itself is a bit stolen and altered to make it my own.
The black logo's have been printed by myself on laser waterslide decal paper and sealed with a clear coat.
I did the same stealing and altering thing. I also did the black inkjet waterslide thing. I did try different colours on the waterslide but the dark wood background just showed through them.
I did try different colours on the waterslide but the dark wood background just showed through them
Yeah that is a pitty with these decals, lighter colors or shades translates in more or less translucency since printers can't print white. That's one reason why I ordered these gold/white/silver decals as well.
Your decal looks great. I think I've been on the same journey as you. Whilst I can print my own water slide transfers in black which works well for light coloured headstocks I had to resort to buying some silver ones to go on darker headstocks. Bought from Rothko and Frost - rather expensive but I managed to cram 12 decals onto a quarter sheet. I can't get my little otter decal in silver as it's a jpeg on a white background. I think I need some specialist software to recognise it and remove it from the background. Anyway well done on yours.
Chris
The logos look great....I’ve been meaning to do mine (my avatar) but the to do list of other things has always got in the way..I’m just lazy I guess.
It does finish your guitars off..
I have too many guitars...said no one in the world..ever!
I can't get my little otter decal in silver as it's a jpeg on a white background. I think I need some specialist software to recognise it and remove it from the background. Anyway well done on yours.
Hi @Chrisot If you want I can try to help you out with that?
I agree with you about having a logo. It does make the guitar look finished but that’s probably because we’re used to it.
The logo itself is a bit stolen and altered to make it my own.
Yeah I saw your inspiration immediately but it looks good and I like it. 👍
Practice on scrap...