Never done exactly this but I cocked up fitting a Grainger ferule block in a similar way. I tried to make an exact fit for the hole i.e. oval shape at the ends and didn't succeed which meant lots of filler. Would making the hole square be a good idea as a square block is easier to cut? Maybe make the block longer than it needs to be so after the route you've got glued wood on three sides instead of one? (Given how strong decent glue is I bet you don't need to worry though)

I'm sure one of the more experienced builders will tell me why this won't work, but if it's going to be painted could you route out a square that encompasses everything from the trem cavity to the neck pickup (but only as deep as current depth)? You could then fill with one block, route new pickup cavities to correct depth etc, which will mean more wood overall?

Plan B: fill the trem hole but don't route out again, just tell your mate that it wouldn't be strong enough for a trem and all the cool kids are using hard tails anyway. 🤣 

To be brutally honest, having just watched the video, is it worth saving that body?

It doesn't look to be the best mix of woods, and with the combination of the misplaced trem rout, and the rout-through on the pickup cavities, perhaps whoever put it together should be enouraged to have another go at making a body?

Would making the hole square be a good idea as a square block is easier to cut? Maybe make the block longer than it needs to be so after the route you've got glued wood on three sides instead of one? (Given how strong decent glue is I bet you don't need to worry though)

@rockpile99 Yeah I was thinking something along those lines. Thanks. 👍

To be brutally honest, having just watched the video, is it worth saving that body?

It doesn't look to be the best mix of woods, and with the combination of the misplaced trem rout, and the rout-through on the pickup cavities, perhaps whoever put it together should be enouraged to have another go at making a body?

@tv101 Yeah I can see what you mean but the thing is, it was made in America and shipped to me for painting. I don’t just want to give up on it, it’s a challenge, I want to fix it. 

@boo

I’ve done a similar type of job where the owner wanted to remove the tremolo bridge and fit a fixed one. I did it by creating a template to fit the tremolo cavity using thick Perspex and then used this to make a patch to be glued in.

Obviously a router can’t be used to make small patches like this so I drew the template shape onto the patch, rough shaped it and finished down to the line with a disc sander that I made as a lathe attachment, but hand sanding will work.

No photos to show as there was no digital media in those days.

but the thing is, it was made in America and shipped to me for painting

Wow!

That's some investment the person has made.

Wow!

That's some investment the person has made.

@tv101 You are gonna love how it’s gonna sparkle. ✨✨✨✨✨✨

I’ve done a similar type of job where the owner wanted to remove the tremolo bridge and fit a fixed one. I did it by creating a template to fit the tremolo cavity using thick Perspex and then used this to make a patch to be glued in.

@rocknroller912 Yeah I think I’ve just had a similar idea. Thanks for the input. 👍

I’m going to block it and reroute it

Hi @boo,

I don't think you need worry about the strength of an end grain block going in there, as you said the stress is being exerted forward of the repair. If you used a block of maple then it is going to be stronger than the poplar anyway, whichever direction the grain is running. If you can't get an absolutely perfect fit then make sure you use a structural adhesive such as epoxy so any gaps are filled.

And you've given me another idea..... CNC machined repair blocks with a matched routing template. Similar to the repair system I fashioned for the cable socket and kill switch holes on my electric build but of a size that could be used to fill in misplaced or altered pick up cavities or, as in this case, bridge fittings. What do you think?

Cheers

Darren

CNC machined repair blocks with a matched routing template. 

@darrenking

That’s a good idea for sure and it’s already being done. Mike Potvin in Canada offers it for pickups and I had one made years ago. It worked great!

@darrenking

CNC machined blocks and templates would be a tremendous time saving for repair jobs. It would also take away a lot of stress for builders knowing there is an easy fix for mistakes. Hand making and fitting stuff like this is very time consuming. 

I should point out that the Template from Potvin didn’t come with a block of wood but the templates to make the block and the cut, sorry @darrenking

Having the blocks made is actually a great idea, it would save a lot of work!

CNC machined repair blocks with a matched routing template.

Just how many mistakes do you think we make @darrenking?

You could sell loads!

😆

And you've given me another idea..... CNC machined repair blocks with a matched routing template. Similar to the repair system I fashioned for the cable socket and kill switch holes on my electric build but of a size that could be used to fill in misplaced or altered pick up cavities or, as in this case, bridge fittings. What do you think?

@darrenking Yeah, that would be handy. I’m going to upload another video soon to show you what I plan on doing, it’s kind of the same thing ish. 

I had to do something vaguely similar when some idiot routed the bridge pickup cavity in the wrong place.

Wrong as in, 1" out, and just where the bridge posts needed to go.

Idiot.

I Some idiot had also spent hours carving the cap (and a very nice cap it was too) and had to think of a way to repair the damage without causing further damage.

The patient ...

Well @tv101 at least that idiot did some cool inlays!

@darrenking I’ve been wanting to do more stuff with routing templates and repair blocks, even where a repair isn’t needed. I was saving this idea for a later build but as the subject has come up, I’ll tell you about it. I’ve used this technique for years to repair all kinds of stuff, such as floorboards. I generally use a contrasting wood for aesthetic effect, I think it works. Here are a few I’ve done around the house (see pics). When I sanded the downstairs floors about a decade ago, some bits where not too good so they got repaired. 

There is a guy I follow on Instagram called Slab Stitcher, they make the templates and blanks. I have always free handed everything but having routing templates with the corresponding blanks would be a great time saver and much neater. 
https://www.slabstitcher.com/  

Make a nice big template 

And rout out a nice big cavity

There's a long backstory to this one, which explains why you can see the remains of an old pickup cavity in the photo above (I had to re-cap this body to correct for a mis-angled neck - not my mistake!!).

Best bit of offcut I could find, in terms of grain matching.  I didn't know that @Boo s existing back then, so this was getting a stained (not painted) finish,

It took some persuading, but it fitted.

Now, lets get it right this time ...

I think it worked out OK ...