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cheesewhisk
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A91E71E3 BC93 4822 BC08 3958ED4CC2AA
153FA805 6A04 4805 B754 81AC017BF324
5544A80C 4FD4 4591 953E 0FE78C1E2088
237D6D86 DEB6 45BE 9312 CB9DC18B3E9B

 

It took almost as long to separate the two templates as it did to route them as the double sided tape didn’t want to let go.

I’m a bit worried about copy routing the pointy bits, any advice on avoiding tear out on those areas. And yes I now see why the bandsman is a great idea for a beginner 🙂


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tv1
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It took almost as long to separate the two templates as it did to route them as the double sided tape didn’t want to let go.

 

Forgive me if you know this already, but sometimes a "twisting" movement between the two pieces can unstick them more easily than trying to pull them apart.

If that still doesn't work, open a small gap between them with a Stanley knife, then work something thin and longer into the gap (I often use one of my metal rulers).

Online guitar making courses – guitarmaking.co.uk


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Russ
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I’m a bit worried about copy routing the pointy bits,

Looks great @cheesewhisk. I'd probably rout up to near the edges and finish it off by hand with a sanding block. 🤷🏻‍♂️ 

🙂🎶🎸🙏

🗝️ "Life's what you make it"🗝️


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tv1
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I’m a bit worried about copy routing the pointy bits, any advice on avoiding tear out on those areas.

Usual rules - take small depth of cuts with each pass and - if your router has a speed control - go slow.  Trim the piece as much as safely possible on the bandsaw (or whatever else you've got) so that the router is only trimming the last couple of mm.

For the pointy bits, I'd probably start at the tip and work away from there for an inch or so.  Once you get away from the tips then you can use the router as you normally would (ie rout against the rotation of the cutter).

Online guitar making courses – guitarmaking.co.uk


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Jonathan Hodgson
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I don't know quite what it is about the explorer, but it's probably my favourite "radical" guitar shape.

It's "wrong" for a guitar (says the guy who plays a headless!), but somehow very balanced aesthetically.


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cheesewhisk
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Thanks guys.

 

 

@tv101 I'll give twisting a go next time, seems obvious now you say it but that's probably the same about a lot of thing. I went with a metal ruler then screw driver in the end, maybe a bit less tape next time too.

I trimmed the template on the band saw down to the last couple of mm so that seems like the way to go cheers.

Is that what the call a 'climb cut'?


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darrenking
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as the double sided tape didn’t want to let go

You could also consider screwing them onto the blank using screw positions that correspond to the pick up cut outs or control knob holes (if these haven't already been machined that is).


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jamesalexandermcmillan
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...also tear out depends on the grain at the pointy bits. Better to go with the grain rather than against I would think. 

I like the rd artist shape that’s a bit less pointy than an explorer but I gave both and like both. Jim


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mattbeels
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Explorers are awesome. I like Firebirds and RD’s too but Explorers are just so James Hetfield for me. But my favorite has always been the Flying V. It’s just so... symmetrical and super badass. I also love the Star, I have to get some templates done up for one of those. There’s probably nothing more 80’s than a kick ass Star and I love the 80’s. 

Practice on scrap...


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Tej
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@cheesewhisk Looks great! I finished the body template for my less spiky bandsman. Looking forward to the finished article you create here!

It looks like you’ve made a pattern from the pattern, was that just to test it or am I missing something here?

…on an elaborate journey to turn trees into music.


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mattbeels
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@tej

I’m assuming that he made a working template from the master. You should always make a copy and use that and keep the master for making more when your template either gets worn or bungled.

Practice on scrap...


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Tej
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@mattbeels 🙂 I’d just watched that in one of the videos too, I’m gonna need more MDF!

…on an elaborate journey to turn trees into music.


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mark bailey
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I’m a bit worried about copy routing the pointy bits, any advice on avoiding tear out on those areas.

You can 'Back Route' the corners to prevent break out:

Route as normal until you are close to the dodgy corner then skip past and then and route backwards around the corner - continue roting forward until you reach the next tricky corner and repeat.

When profiling:

forward = clockwise

Back Route = anti clockwise

keep the back routed area to a minimum as the router will tend to feel more unstable and may 'snatch' so take extra care in these areas.

Practice on scrap - I realoiise there is only so much you can do as every bit of wood is different but at least you can get used to the feeling odf 'Back Routing'

Good luck!

Measure twice, cut once...


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mattbeels
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I’m gonna need more MDF!

Yup @tej. Just like tools, we always need more! 

Practice on scrap...


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mattbeels
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Hello there @markbailey, how are you? I hope all is well on your end!

Practice on scrap...


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Russ
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@markbailey. Good to see you back on the forum Mark. Hope all is well with you. 

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cheesewhisk
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Thanks @markbailey I should have a decent amount to test on once I cut out the body.

I hope you are well, we're all thinking about you. 


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cheesewhisk
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@tej like Mat says and Mark suggests, make a master then a copy from that so if and when you hack into it you have a backup master. 

@mattbeels you know me and my bandsaw / router skills, it's a 'kind of master' but one straight edge is utter balls because I cut too close on the band saw. Thankfully I used a complete straight edge to copy route all the actual straight edges onto the template.

 

 


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mattbeels
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I used a complete straight edge to copy route all the actual straight edges onto the template.

Well done @cheesewhisk, as long as you got there in the end. Did you then make a backup, is that what’s in the photo?

Practice on scrap...


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cheesewhisk
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Cheers @mattbeels yeah so for the master I used straight edges and cut close to the lines with the bandsaw then sanded the curves. Then I used that to make a copy but used a straight edge instead of the master to fix the edge. If you look at the photo of them stuck together you can see the X's X's I scribbled on to remind me that bit was wonky.


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