@kalimar Totally finet, usually about 7 minimum, my headstocks are usually 7 – 10 or so and all work perfect without string trees. There’s no exact rule on it.

I often stick scraps together to make bigger pieces for cavity covers and headstock plates like this one.
 

Due to taking the lady shopping today I didn’t get a lot done. My binding showed up though and looks a pretty good match to my pickups. Also my new binding router kit from radian tools arrived for doing the…   Read more»

Did some of the cutting out of the inner horns and planed the fretboard sides to make room for binding, so far so good.
 

@swepri I find getting the drills to go exactly where you want them can be a bit of a fight lol. Small mbits with the hand drill aren’t so bad, you just tilt the drill to move things about when…   Read more»

Little bit more work today, did the slot for the pickup wiring so when I rout out the pickup cavities the channel will appear. I cut a lot of excess off the neck to make it easier to deal with….   Read more»

Well today I finally made a start, worked everything out then got the truss rod slot sorted, fretboard pinned and headstock angle. Need to wait on binding, then shave the fretboard down and attach the binding before gluing. Won’t have…   Read more»

@russ all stable, only ever had one where the neck warped and that was a very expensive piece of birds eye maple! Yet if I’ve used old floorboards etc they’re stil as good as the day I made them lol

@rathius I sat a 12 radius block on a 16 radius board, the gap was les than 0.2mm! Took me by surprise, there’s so little in it. I do 12, 14 and 16 though, basically whatever the bridge is. I…   Read more»

100% do all the fretwork first! It’s a pain where the sun don’t shine trying to do the upper frets after lol.   And a 100% don’t forget the pickup wiring slot, I did on my 2nd one! Luckily it…   Read more»

@bpower thanks mate