Hi @somethingnicer, I’m presuming you’ve drilled the hole for the switch, but not routed out the cavity for the switch and that’s what you’re wanting to do next?  You are pretty close to the edge. It’s not ideal, but if…   Read more»

@somethingnicer Yeah exactly that, don’t take the neck out. 😆 Yeah, take the bridge and all the other hardware off and prep the hell out of anything you want paint to stick to. Definitely mask off the fretboard, protect those…   Read more»

@somethingnicer Here’s what I did on my latest les paul type build.

  You can also slice off the lower half of the heel and glue a longer piece on, even add a thin piece of something else to…   Read more»

@somethingnicer 

. I think that’s my move. Thanks for talkin this through with me!

Your welcome. It’ll work out just fine.

@somethingnicer  Actually, now that I look at it, this doesn’t seem too horrible….. I think the may be the easiest method to reshape on this line. Does that jive with you? That would certainly be the simplest. You could make…   Read more»

@somethingnicer  That’s an interesting idea. So to do that I would cut out a pickup shaped piece of wood and glue it in and sand it down? Exactly that. Use an offcut from your body blank, you might be lucky…   Read more»

@somethingnicer 
Or, you could fill in the bridge pickup recess and route a new one closer to the neck pickup. The bridge would maybe cover most of the filled in piece.

@somethingnicer 
Maybe you could reshape the body by cutting the end of the body back to let the heel protrude a bit and keep the crucial 25″ scale length.

@somethingnicer
Can I ask, which part doesn’t match your drawing, the body or the neck ?

@somethingnicer
A little bit of fretboard dust and super glue should do the trick. Gluboost is good stuff for this very job.

Hi @somethingnicer, yes it’s 12″ radius on the fretboard. Hope your build is going well.

The others are right @somethingnicer, once you start carving and sanding the neck profile you won’t see it…… It’s all a learning experience….. now you are already a more experienced router user. 👍 
🙂🎶🎸🙏

@somethingnicer Most of that will be removed when carving the neck too so don’t worry to much. I doubt anyone will ever notice once the build is finished.

@somethingnicer Glue a shaving of wood into the recessed area, make it a good fit, and match the grain as best you can. Once you’ve sanded it down flush, I guarantee that no one else will notice it unless you…   Read more»

@somethingnicer Best to leave a lttle bit extra on the flat area for the nut. When you sand it to take the router marks off and leave a nice smooth finish, that will reduce the flat area a bit. So…   Read more»

@somethingnicer When you make the rough cut on the bandsaw, leave plenty of waste to be removed in the surface routing. Place the neck blank in the gig so that the rough cut slope is below the sloping side rails,…   Read more»

@somethingnicer Hi again, ask all the questions you need to, better that than making mistakes, we’re all on a learning curve here!!😃 Mark’s dimensions for the gig, the side rails are 70mm tall, not sure the size of yours. In…   Read more»

@somethingnicer I think that’ll just be for the fatter end part, the main part of the rod will be a 1/4 inch. Personally I use a 1/4 inch for the full length including acces then I go over the thicker…   Read more»

@somethingnicer 
I’m thinking that the wooden filler strip has been taped on to the trussrod to protect it during transport.

 This is what my trussrods look like. A round steel rod and a flat steel strip.

Cheers @SomethingNicer. I do like the Stewmac stuff but I tend to wait…   Read more»