Share:
Notifications
Clear all

Headstock slope

Page 1 / 2
   RSS

0
Topic starter
Hey guys, I’ve just thinned out my headstock down to 15mm and am getting ready to carve out the slope next.  How does this look? Should I leave as is and proceed with carving or make the slope steeper by routing more maple off, I.e. receded closer towards the nut? 
 
 
 
 
This topic was modified 12 months ago by frank1985

@frank1985 leave it as it is looks good and ready to be carved

15 Answers
1

Leave it as it is and carve it, it’s in the right place. 👍

Make guitars, not war 🌍✌️🎸

0

What @boo says!

0

Looks good spot on

0
Topic starter

Thanks guys, i'm just about to start on the slope, wish me luck 😐 

This post was modified 12 months ago by frank1985
0
Topic starter

Ok job done, but it didn’t go as planned...in my never ending quest to correct any imbalances I ended up overcarving/sanding, resulting in a dip at the base. The headstock thickness is currently 15mm. Perhaps during final sanding the dip will be a little less pronounced. Balls.  









This post was modified 12 months ago 3 times by frank1985

@frank1985 That’s fine, I would leave it like that, don’t try and sand further into the headstock. The main thing is, it won’t affect the instrument from being played, that’s the most important thing. It won’t be very noticeable, only you will know it’s like that. If you sand any more into the headstock area, especially near where the tuning pegs go in, it will be bad news when you go to fit them. Put it down to experience and move on, do a better job on your next attempt. 👍

0
Topic starter

Heh, maybe I was expecting too much to get it right first time....I did have it where I wanted at one stage but I went further than necessary in trying to make the face of the slope perfectly level.

it bothers me that it’s there...is there anything else I can do to fix, or at least hide it?

This post was modified 12 months ago 2 times by frank1985
0

I had that happen to me as well on the heal of my first acoustic neck... but what I did was call it a "custom design feature " and now people will think I meant to put it there. 🙂

I was just a little nervous about chasing a flaw that really didn't matter too much in the big picture. So far no one that has seen my guitar has seen the dip. On a side note... I decided not to put the same design feature on my newest neck. 🙂

0
Topic starter

Haha “custom design feature”. I’ve used that one already today - told a friend it was my own unique deviation from the typical fender design 🙂

This post was modified 12 months ago 2 times by frank1985
0

My advice, for what it is worth, is to think of a good reason why you wanted to do it as it ended up and then stick to it. By all means you can say that you’ll do it differently the next time (insert reason for this) but your guitar looks great and if it sounds good too, what’s the problem? Perfection is a myth and nothing good ever came of being afraid of making mistakes. Rock on, there’s lot’s of wood out there with unfulfilled potential!!!

Darren

0
Topic starter

Darren I see what you’re saying but I honestly can’t think of any reason why I’d want it that way.

I’ve calculated that to smooth it out, I’d need to sand off down to 14.2mm. Would this be a problem with my vintage fender kluson style tuners? I wouldn’t be opposed to gluing a veneer to the rear to compensate. 

@frank1985 If you are determined to get it down to 14mm, route it in the jig you made rather than trying to sand it. It’s not only quicker but it will be consistent and even all over. If you try and sand it, you may end up sloping it too much in one direction so it would be slightly thinner in another. Put the neck (headstock) back in the surface routing jig and route it to about 14.5mm, then sand off the rest as the router rarely leaves a perfect finish (you will see some swirl marks from the cutter). You will maybe need to sand the transition into the “slope” so be careful not to repeat the same mistake again. You could laminate a veneer on if you wanted.

0

Nah.... no problem at all. 14 mm is even closer to vintage Fender specs then 15 mm.... You'll be OK!

Measure once, cut straight away and maybe you're lucky......

0
Topic starter

I managed to level it out nicely with the router...I’m a lot happier with it now 🙂 Lesson learnt for next time...

@frank1985 Excellent, well done. 👍

@frank1985 also if you really wanted to you could put a laminate on top of the headstock to get the thickness back to what you planned.

 

🙂 (edit) just noticed how old this question was 😬

0

Looking too good and excellent work..

Alexander Zingman

0

asking for help here...your neck headstock looks great...rounded;

I've kinda messed up my first attempt at surface routering with my headstock jig; I'm sure it's from inexperience and needing to watch Mark's video just once more, lol...i'll submit a couple of pictures and welcome advice;

I now have about a 3-4mm lip - unwanted lip at the back edge of where the nut will snug up to the peghead...I'm sure I'll just have to feather it out somehow...sanding itrounded and make it asthetically look ok, just hoping i haven't taken it too far and have to "plane down the entire neck to match it,,,seems minimal, but want other experienced opinions here please...

I've not placed the fretboard yet, or even finished cutting out the neck layout - i've just now came into contact with a friend to help with a bandsaw...we had a vacation out-of-state and a Covid scare with a  hospital stay, so I'm just now getting back to my guitar build. I  think this is pretty fixble, it's only about 5mm on one side and 3mm on the other with barely a mm in the "hump in the center...my router must be dipping at the sides - user error...thanks ya'll 

<>< Poco7

20211014 185551

 

20220304 141946[1]

@poco7 I would opt to cleanup the surface , including the location for the nut , since it looks like it is also affected? Then you could go for a headstock plate ( veneer ) all the way to the fretboard. Or just make your fretboard a little longer to also include the nut ( create a little lip for the nut to be seated on , if that makes sense)

thanks for the feedback...appreciated
Poco7 ( o)===

Page 1 / 2