I’m sure Mark did a live stream on neck through construction.

@rocknroller912 where can I find his livestreams can see a link from Here too them. Am I missing the obvious Here?

@koendb

But your wings should already be roughly shaped.

So this is one of the parts I was really unsure with, I’d assumed you wouldn’t cut them to shape as I’d expect you want/need consistant clamping pressure across the wood and that’s going to be hard with a profile cut into it. On the other hand pretty unwieldy to cut once the next is attached though with adequate relief cuts might be no issue here?!?

you want/need consistant clamping pressure across the wood and that’s going to be hard with a profile cut into it. On the other hand pretty unwieldy to cut once the next is attached though with adequate relief cuts might be no issue here?!?

@tej. you could do with relief cuts, or what I have done with , for example, my Flying V, is to use the offcuts pieces to give the clamps a flat surface to work with. You dont need a whole lot of clamping force either.
Another trick is to use cellophane tape instead of clamps. Never tried that though , and I imagine it is harder to keep the wings in the exact spot.

You could also make the cuts more square and , as @rocknroller912 suggested, let your router do more work.

where can I find his livestreams can see a link from Here too them. Am I missing the obvious Here?

@tej: Workshop Weekend Sunday Special !! Building a guitar at home - Making a Thru Neck Guitar

Last week I progressed quite a bit for this build

Got my laminated neck blank from G&W

.

Made a headstock template

Glued the scarf joint

 Routed the trussrod channel

And finally, rough shaping.

Well, some pictures are in the wrong cronological order 🙂

Yesterday, I flattened the headstock and neck. But apparently, during my rough cut on the bandsaw, I  went in  to deep on the headstock at one point.
So I needed to flatten the headstock  to 11mm thickness, which is just too thin. So I used the off-cut from the headstock to create a 4mm thick  veneer  and glued that to the front of the headstock

I also slotted the fretboard, but forgot to take pictures. Who need pictures of fret slotting anyway? 😆 

Today, I testfitted the tuners and discovered a small design flaw in my headstock. I should have left a bit more space on a few pegholes, they are rather close to the edge, and, the one for the G string above the washer of the B string tuner. it does not touch and , thus there is no technical issue, but it would have looked a bit nicer if that one came in a bit more from the center.

 Shaping the fretboard..

Last step for today: making the body template.

Thats all for now folks! Next up routing an angle in the body, while waiting for my okoume blanks and 16" radius sanding block to arrive

@koendb

but it would have looked a bit nicer if that one came in a bit more from the center.

You could plug the hole and drill again where you wnt it. If you don't move it too far, the washer will cover the repair

You could plug the hole and drill again where you wnt it. If you don't move it too far, the washer will cover the repair

 

@Robin Yes indeed. I 'll decide that just before final sanding and finishing

@koendb

I think that moving the peg hole may cause an alignment problem with the nut as the string won’t be pulling in a straight line, it will be rubbing on the side on the nut slot which isn’t good for tuning.

it will be rubbing on the side on the nut slot which isn’t good for tuning.

@rocknroller912 Well on a Les  Paul, none of the strings are ligning up with the nut. You just have to cut the nut with a little bit of an angle at the back of the nut (where the string leaves the nut towards the tuning pegs). So I don't think this is a big issue?

@koendb

True but it is a potent string break point. I think some of the old 50s and 60s designs have a lot of room for improvement 

True but it is a potent string break point. I think some of the old 50s and 60s designs have a lot of room for improvement 

@rocknroller912 I dont think string break is the issue, but tuning stability is. String breaks are more of an issue on the other end, at the bridge, where string angle is much more extreme. I rarely break strings these days, but when I did, they always broke at the bridge

@koendb

Interesting I’ve never seen a string break at the bridge on any instrument

Interesting I’ve never seen a string break at the bridge on any instrument

I guess on acoustic instruments it is indeed not a common issue.
So yeah I can definitely see where you are coming from.
On electric guitars , however, you have 2 issues: bridge is metal and most of the designs involve a very drastic break angle ( TOM, Strat and tele bridges/trems ).
This is only my experience of course 🤔 

Fretboard markers done, radiussed to 16" radius.
Only thing to do is check and saw the slot to depth, install the side dots and glue the fretboard on.

Glued the okoume wings to the body

I planed both sides, with a slight recess on the front, for proper bridge height.
Finally, rough cut the shape with the bandsaw. It starts to look like a guitar.

It is starting to take shape now @koendb. Keep up the good work. 

🙂🎶🎸🙏

@koendb 

I like the stripe design all though the middle. Think I will try that one day. I get your point about the string break angle on an electric bridge also.

Back to glueing on the wings - if you cut out the wing shapes on your bandsaw keep the bits you cut off to use to clamp on the wings…….

if you cut out the wing shapes on your bandsaw keep the bits you cut off to use to clamp on the

@frocesterbill I only cut out the innershape of the horns, so I had rectangular shapes to clamp. Only after drying I rough cut the rest of the body