Little bit more work today, did the slot for the pickup wiring so when I rout out the pickup cavities the channel will appear. I cut a lot of excess off the neck to make it easier to deal with….   Read more»

Well today I finally made a start, worked everything out then got the truss rod slot sorted, fretboard pinned and headstock angle. Need to wait on binding, then shave the fretboard down and attach the binding before gluing. Won’t have…   Read more»

@russ all stable, only ever had one where the neck warped and that was a very expensive piece of birds eye maple! Yet if I’ve used old floorboards etc they’re stil as good as the day I made them lol

@rathius I sat a 12 radius block on a 16 radius board, the gap was les than 0.2mm! Took me by surprise, there’s so little in it. I do 12, 14 and 16 though, basically whatever the bridge is. I…   Read more»

100% do all the fretwork first! It’s a pain where the sun don’t shine trying to do the upper frets after lol.   And a 100% don’t forget the pickup wiring slot, I did on my 2nd one! Luckily it…   Read more»

@bpower thanks mate

And finished, the blue resin is perfect too, nice and subtle. Gotoh hardware, warman pickups, coil split with a 2.2k resistor to keep the split fatter sounding.
 

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@kalimar push pull is very simple and definitely the easy way to go. With the split wires that go to the split switch, I stick a 2.2k resistor inline, this gives you a fatter single coil sound and les volume…   Read more»

Not long now, sprayed the body today, now to leave it 24 – 48 hours then on to assembly.
 

@kalimar haven’t a clue buddy, I stumbled in here after I’d started building.

@kalimar But your fender type bridge is easier because you don’t need any neck angle, that bridge you have looks very simple and maybe good for a first go.

@kalimar I’ve done them with a 35mm blank doing a 3 + 3 headstock with a low angle and volute, worked great.