Exploding balls, the mind boggles.
Some people call me a tool, others are less complimentary. Tools being useful things.
Nitro is used in incendiary rounds .50 calibre sniper or machine gun belts. It sets off the other stuff and I think it’s ignited with just a spark.
Nitro is a mix of different chemicals, then you add either cotton, glycerine etc to get different products. So obviously as you said before spark proof electrics are essential not only in the spray cabinet but anywhere it’s being used or anywhere the overspray can build up. Even static sparks from man made clothing can set it off.
I think eventually it won’t even be available for instrument makers so I’m thinking of oil based brush finishes. I bought a small supply from
www.violinvarnishitaly.com
It looks good on guitars as well and I don’t think it needs UV although I would have to check. The down side is colours which are basically golden to dark brown due to the chemical reactions which are used. But it’s fine as a clear coat. It’s a one person operation and he is looking for trade firms outside Italy to retail the product if anyone is interested.
Some people call me a tool, others are less complimentary. Tools being useful things.
Nitro is used in incendiary rounds .50 calibre sniper or machine gun belts. It sets off the other stuff and I think it’s ignited with just a spark.
@rocknroller912 Interesting. Do you have a military background?
Make guitars, not war 🌍✌️🎸
Nitro is used in incendiary rounds .50 calibre sniper or machine gun belts. It sets off the other stuff and I think it’s ignited with just a spark.
@rocknroller912 Interesting. Do you have a military background?
@boo - it could just be a “hobby” - might be better not to ask too much detail.
Online guitar making courses – guitarmaking.co.uk
it could just be a “hobby” - might be better not to ask too much detail.
@tv101 I wasn’t planning on asking for detail. I know better not to ask military personnel for details, I wouldn’t put anyone in that position. I’m not interested in learning about explosives and explosions, apart from how to prevent and avoid them. 🤣
Make guitars, not war 🌍✌️🎸
Not exactly I worked in a place where explosive hazards were present so you had to know all the stuff that was dangerous. What is liable to cause a hazard and what can set it off. Work could be very restrictive, no mobile phones, electronic key fobs on cars, radios, food or drink in certain places. Static discharge points on entering a building. Thankfully my office was free of restrictions apart from no plonkers.
Some manufacturing plants where chemicals are used can be high explosive risks.
Some people call me a tool, others are less complimentary. Tools being useful things.
Thankfully my office was free of restrictions apart from no plonkers.
@rocknroller912 No plonkers 😂😂😂😂
Sounds like an interesting job though.
I bet the hardest part was not to get complacent.
Make guitars, not war 🌍✌️🎸
I had lots of different hats to wear. I did purchasing with a company credit card, sourcing parts for the workshop, occupational health & safety, writing computer scripts using commercial software, trade union rep. I even made my fiddle at work at the back of the stores when the work was slack. I used to take the bits every day in bubble wrap. Did a few guitar repair jobs there as well.
The no plonkers sign didn’t work, management walked in whenever it suited them.
Some people call me a tool, others are less complimentary. Tools being useful things.
For anything showing wood grain I use acrylic clear supplied by the Paint Centre Newton Abbott - the rattle cans have amazing quality adjustable nozzles.
Prior to spraying I brush seal grain first.
6 weeks to cure in my dry-room.
I have recently taken to using Rustins Plastic Coat which is a two part. Can be brushed on or sprayed. Applying several thin coats about an hour apart and then ready for polishing after about two days or so. I've been pleased as previously I've had to wait weeks to get to the polishing stage.
@chrisot I've got the starter pack of Rustins for my finish experiments (I'm going to be trying different topcoats, stain, sealer and filler combinations on small test pieces, so I think the small quantity in the starter pack should be enough for evaluation )
Have you just used it over bare wood, or have you tried any stains, sealers, whatever underneath?
The picture attached to my post shows guitar that I stained using water based stain from Crimson guitars. I've also used it on an acoustic and again it was pretty easy to work with although not very nice to breathe. Good ventilation and a mask are pretty much essential I would say.
Thanks. Other than the mask/ventilation thing, any other advice?
I sprayed it using a cheap spray gun that came with my cheapish compressor. Seemed to work fine, easier than brushing and better spray than rattle cans. I have used nitro in the past and I always damage it when buffing it as I'm impatient and/or clumsy.
So your saying I probably should leave my nitro finished jazzmaster in the conservatory?
Serioulsy though, I used some rattle cans of nitro from northwest guitars. Obviously well ventilated and using a proper mask unlike the guy who demos it on YT who takes his mask of immediately after spraying 🙄 aa they say, if you can smell it it’s already in your blood stream.
CrystaLac Brite Tone.
I know a lot of American guitar builders use this as a top coat and finish for their instruments, and for a long time we haven't been able to get it in the UK, well thats all changed.
For any of you that aren't aware its a High Solid, Super Hard, Scratch resistant, Clear Finish with exceptional Clarity. It will build to a high depth very quickly due to its high solids content and will not leave a blue cast on dark exotic wood. Adheres to wood, metal and glass.
you don't need Ventialtion, PPE etc when using it and it can be used indoors.
You can grab your stock now at www.wilsonbrownsupplies.com