Great work as always @boo, that’s pretty black!

I noticed that you have one of the newer THR 10’s, is that a II or III and how do you like it? I’ve had the 10X for years and I love it.

I noticed that you have one of the newer THR 10’s, is that a II or III and how do you like it? I’ve had the 10X for years and I love it.

@mattbeels It’s a THR30II Wireless and it’s awesome. 🤘😁🤘🎸 

I originally looked at buying one of the previous models as they were cheaper but this one combined all of feature of all three of them into one package. It has the Modern, Classic and Boutique settings from those previous amps at the flick of a switch and settings for Bass, Acoustic or Flat guitar. It has 5 channels for each of them, Clean, Crunch, Lead, Hi Gain and Special. I have all the usual dials too, Gain, Bass, Middle, Treble, and Master. A few basic effects and reverb as well as Bluetooth connectivity for external devices, with a separate volume for my guitar and the connected device levels. So if I’m using a backing track from my iPad or I want to play along with a song, I can get the volume balance level. It has built in rechargeable battery and I have option to charge a wireless guitar to amp thingy if so be. It has an app so I can access advanced settings and download settings from a vast online library. It has a headphone Jack socket, line outs and the usb allows for recording onto a DAW on external devices/computers etc. 
It sounds superb for a little tabletop digital amp, it sounds so valve-like, truly amazing. I’ve only used it as a basic amp so far, I have yet to explore the advanced stuff. I’m only a bedroom player these days so it’s absolutely ideal for that, great tones. I’ve I had this as a teenager, I would have been the happiest kid alive. 

@mattbeels I’ve also bought a Positive Grid Spark that I haven’t used at all yet. I got it out the box when it arrived and put it straight on a shelf. I got the Yamaha at the same time and that has just been easier to use on a daily basis with wonderful tones. The Spark is more involved in terms of using iPad etc to control it and I just haven’t had the time or inclination to learn how to use it yet. It’s just gathering dust as you can see. 😢😭 I’ll get around to it one day. 

OK, back to the blackness. 🖤 

Unclamped this morning. I’m going to leave it for another day for the glue to cure a bit more before I get the router on it again, just in case. 
It’s looking a bit rough at the moment isn’t it? 🤣 It’s just where I want it. 🤘🖤🤘🎸

Holes plugged and glued. 

A spot of routing. The Bagpress routing jig came in handy for this job. I had to add an extra piece of wood into the jig so the cutter bearing could ride along the bottom of the fretboard. It’s all come out nice and neat, I just need to fill and prime it now and a lot of sanding and prepping. 

Very neat @boo. Looking forward to seeing how this turns out. 

🙏🎶🎸🙂

very cool @boo. You've got all the bagpress toys. I think I need to befriend him. 🙂 I've only got one of his toys. Maybe in time. The guitar is looking awesome.... for an electric. he he he. 

You've got all the bagpress toys. I think I need to befriend him. 🙂

@bpower He is a very nice chap, I’m sure he will be glad to help you out. @darrenking 

The guitar is looking awesome.... for an electric. he he he. 

Thanks very much. It’s getting there, this is the last major job on it, apart from the final coats of paint. 

Time for a little filler. I’m using a two component, lightweight filler that can be sanded within a few minutes of curing, which is about 10 mins. I first drilled a load of holes, only about 5mm deep, at various angles. This is so that when I press the filler in, those holes will be filled and there will be no chance of it falling out in time. This stuff sets rock hard and it’s only like putting a wooden fillet over the joint, but this way is more easily sanded and can be painted over. It will take several applications to build it up and lots of sanding to get it level. After it’s right, I’ll clean everything up and mask up again so I can spray some high build primer over that localised area (several coats). That will then be sanded perfectly flat so I can clean, mask up yet again and give the body it’s final coats of black and matt clear lacquer. 
It’s a lot of work for such a small area but that’s what I need to do on this particular job. I’ll be doing all of this by hand, I’m not using my Mirka sander as it’s too near the fretboard and the last thing I want to do is damage that at this stage of the game. 

I applied a second coat if filler (after sanding the first one back a bit) and sanded it fairly flat. I’ll probably get it spot on with the next filler coat. 

It’s looking a bit better now, I’ve feathered out the paint around the repair and I just need to skim fill those tiny pinholes (final filler coat). 

This is the skim fill for those pinholes. I just need to sand it back with some 240 and then it’s time for some high build primer. 

That’s a lot of work @boo!

That’s a lot of work

@mattbeels It is indeed but it’s what I need to do. Next time I will glue the neck in and then put a cap over the whole body top to cover the joint. They are both challenging in their own ways. It’s all good fun though. 😁

Next time I will glue the neck in and then put a cap over the whole body top to cover the joint. 

“It is the only way…”

Yeah, if you don’t want a pickguard or a neck pickup I think that’s the way to go. 

A bit of fancy back-masking and it’s nearly ready for primer. I’ll just mask off the rest of the guitar properly first before a put paint in my gun. 

Where do you buy your masking tape from @boo? 

🎶🎸🙏🙂

Where do you buy your masking tape from @boo? 

@russ Masking tape shop. 🤣

@russ I use Frog Tape these days. It’s quite expensive but it’s amazing quality and there are different types for different situations. Cheaper brands are just not cutting it for me and a lot leave a sticky residue when taken off. It’s not a major problem, it usually wipes off with some spirit wipe but it’s another step to do that you shouldn’t really have to do. As a general rule, masking tape shouldn’t be left of any surface for too long as it causes the glue to harden and can be very difficult to get off. 
Frog Tape though just works how all masking tape is supposed to and they do recognise that there are different situations for different painters. They day a standard one, a low tack one etc….. Again, it isn’t cheap but I like it. There may be other tapes out there that are just as good and maybe cheaper but I haven’t found them yet. 

https://www.frogtape.co.uk/