@liebe Poplar

@liebe No, the shank diameter must be the exact right diameter. But, I think the manufacturer is the same as in Darren’s link, so you may find one there: https://www.wealdentool.com/ Or maybe you can switch collets in your router? I…   Read more»

Hi @swepri   These have just come back into stock. It says they have an 8mm shank, my router has…   Read more»

@liebe Thanks Dan, your suggestion of obeche could be a possibility, it appears that it’s lighter and softer than Poplar but not markedly so. Do you have any suggestions where I might be able to source it? I’ve been looking…   Read more»

@liebe  Thanks Dan, I feel like I’m on the home straight now. I’ve ordered a tin of water based top coat from Northwest guitars, never used this before so we’ll see how it goes.

@liebe Thanks Dan, having a rest for a while, at least until the weather is a bit warmer, then get going on the next one👍😃🎸

@liebe Thanks Dan I didn’t buy the kit from the shop, but it would’ve been an awful lot easier if I did. I already had a lump of mahogany that most of it was cut from. I did buy the…   Read more»

@liebe Thanks. I agree, a recessed bridge does look a bit odd. In this case I have to make a hole for the entire bridge through the pickguard anyway, to avoid the extra height of 3mm. 🙂

@liebe  Hi Dan, you’re approach of making routing jigs for the mortice, tenon and for the angle is definitely the way to go. Having said that, I’m getting close to doing the tenon on the acoustic neck and I’ll probably…   Read more»

@liebe  Its been a couple years since I made this, I did have all posted on Robin’s build #003, but unfortunately I managed to delete it somehow. I reposted it but that particular part of the build isn’t there. I…   Read more»

@liebe
Is this the type of neck joint you’re talking about?

@liebe That’s a nice burst, very well done. It’s subtle but really effective, classy. 👏👏👏👏

@liebe I went to deep once, measured from the lip for the cover rather than the back of the guitar lol.   I used the template to draw the shape on a piece of wood, cut it etc then glued…   Read more»

@liebe really impressive, Dan! Thanks for reaching out. Love that pickguard – was that your design? I like the Tono Caballo ones  so might stick with for the Caballo Tono Ligero HH thinline I’m going for.

@liebe the problem with plunge is you can go to deep and start hitting the wood with the collet. For bits you can go with trend for reasonable but if spending a bit more I’ve got to say radian, they’re…   Read more»

@liebe As @nsj said, longer shafts on the router bits is useful. I use these: https://shop.rall-online.net/epages/61511639.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/61511639/Products/19110058
 

@liebe Longer router bits, I do mine with a palm router including floyd rose routs etc. Most routers don’t have a huge plunge but you use a bunch of different length bits then just swap them as you go.  …   Read more»

@liebe I was concerned about slot depth, slots being clean, getting to much glue on and it choking the slots etc etc lol
Might try the acetone next time. Supposed to work well and of course it doesn’t fill the slots

@liebe For sure, without it you can use a regular fret saw lol   What glue did you use? I found out the hard way that wood glue doesn’t work with plastic binding lol. Superglue was fine though and didn’t…   Read more»

@liebe I got one of those hosco fret slot cleaning saws, seems to work ok