good quality router bits from Radian Tools

@rockpile99 interesting you mention Radian Tools, as I was looking at router bits today as mine are all dirt cheap and won’t do for fine work. Obviously they’re hugely more expensive than most other cutters so would appreciate views on why they’re justified price wise? Happy to spend on quality tools but would prefer there to be more than marketing in that decision!

If the truss rod is 6mm, use a 6mm cutter

@boo that’s what I’d presumed based on what I’d seen so glad I’m not entirely misinformed. I will however hold off buying a cutter until I’ve got the parts.

Next on my list for tooling are sur forms of one sort or another, not something I’ve used before so again advise welcome. Should note I’ve not searched posts in this so if it’s something that’s been done to death I’ll shut up and get searching 😉

I bought Radian based on a recommendation but they're certainly well made, very sharp, and spare parts like bearings are available. I didn't buy a straight cutter (as a 6mm one came with the router) but the flush trim, plunge, and round over bits have been brilliant. The flush trim will quite happily cut through a template, 2" of maple, part of a workmate bench and stay intact (one of those learning opportunities I spoke about) 😀 

Only sur form thing I've bought was a 'micro plane'. It's good but so far I've found my Shinto saw rasp more useful - they're well worth the money and you don't have to pay crazy prises if you go somewhere like Axminster tools rather than luthier suppliers. The 'guitar makers rasp' on guitarmaking.co.uk is pretty good value for money too when you compare to other tool suppliers.

@rockpile99 thanks, so which bits have you actually used then at what size, there are 5 from the guide notes with the round over being optional? Sadly limited to a work mate so good to know I’ll be good for personalising it if needs be 😉

I started out with https://radiantools.com/collections/router-bits/products/4-flute-dual-bearing-router-bit-19mm-x-51mm (as it was capable of trimming bodies and necks in one pass but you could use a shorter cutter and do a few passes).

For cavities I first bought https://radiantools.com/collections/router-bits/products/3-flute-top-bearing-plunge-router-bit-19mm-x-10mm and finished the tighter corners by hand. I guess it depends on the plunge depth of your router? If it won't go very deep then a longer cutter might be better e.g. https://radiantools.com/collections/router-bits/products/3-flute-top-bearing-plunge-router-bit-19mm-x-32mm I didn't really have much a clue when I was first buying and got lucky that the 10mm bit worked.

Then I got https://radiantools.com/collections/router-bits/products/3-flute-top-bearing-plunge-router-bit-9-5mm-x-12mm for making a neater job of pickup cavity & neck pocket corners. (My router is 1/2" shank but came with an adaptor for using 1/4")

The round over bit https://radiantools.com/collections/router-bits/products/4-flute-r9-5mm-roundover-ovolo-router-bit is probably a little bit of an extravagance as what came with the router was OK (but parents wanted to get me a present). You can do round over by hand but it just takes longer ...

@rockpile99 thanks for the breakdown, I’m in a similar place, I’ve only ever used routers for cutting square channels and messing about to no end with round over edge bits. I’m clearly missing something here with the bit where there is a bearing at the top and bottom, don’t quite see how that’s used, well aware it’ll be a lightbulb and/or feeling stupid moment when I find out!?

It confused me too to begin with 😀 

You don't have to use both bearings at once - use whichever best suits the job you're doing and where you have the template.

Here's how I do it (the more experienced builders on this forum will probably tell you better methods).

For a guitar body I put the template on top of the body, sit the router on top of the template and plunge so that the top bearing follows the template and the cutter trims the body to match the template (the bottom bearing sits below the body).

I trim my fretboards to match the neck after gluing on, so in this case I sit the router on top of the fretboard and plunge so that the bottom bearing follows the neck and the cutter trims the fretboard.

Both these methods have the potential for cockups - if you don't keep the router flat you'll end up gouging into the body or neck. It would be far more accurate and safer to use a router table but I haven't got one (or a shed to put it in) so I've got to take my chances by going slowly and carefully with what I've got.

If you're not sure how somethings going to come out - try it on scrap wood first until you're comfortable cutting the expensive stuff.

PS - if you're not following a template for your body shape and just carving/sanding after cutting roughly to shape, then you probably don't really need the edge trimming cutter.

You don't have to use both bearings at once

@rockpile99 There's the me feeling stupid bit 🙂 I'll absolutely be making a template though they'll be worthwhile. As for the main routing bit I was planning to get a more shallow bit and go down the cavity in stages. I like the idea of the smaller radius bit to finish the corners of the pickup and neck pocket corners though. I think now I need to subscribe so I can watch the various videos through and get a clearer idea of what I want to do as I'm sure that in itself will answer many of my questions. First up the design course and digest that and take it from there, I'm hoping it comes with a way to stop time so I don't have to go to work until I've finished 🙂

I think now I need to subscribe so I can watch the various videos through and get a clearer idea of what I want to do as I'm sure that in itself will answer many of my questions. First up the design course and digest that and take it from there, I'm hoping it comes with a way to stop time so I don't have to go to work until I've finished

@tej Yep, that’s definitely the best way forward. I enjoy drawing out designs, it really is an important step before the implementation stage. It’s not complicated, you don’t need to apply much maths or be particularly artistic, it’s quite simple really. It also helps you create your shopping list for all the parts you need, it’s an essential course. 
I would advise, for your first build, using all the parts that Mark uses for the set neck Bailey Bandsman. You will learn a lot and enjoy it, even you wanted to make a bolt on guitar and use different hardware, just do this first. I started out the same way you did, building kit guitars, mainly bolt on necks. When I found these courses, I was unsure at first because I hadn’t made a set neck guitar before and I just wanted to do everything that I was used to. I realise now though that that was just being silly and making the Bandsman was an eye opener. It means I can now make set neck and bolt on guitars. Wow! How did that happen? 🤘😁🤘🎸 

I would advise, for your first build, using all the parts that Mark uses for the set neck Bailey Bandsman

@boo So this sounds like a great idea in theory as one thing I don't want to do is put a lot of effort to ultimately make something that's really silimar to something I already have. In terms of the course (should note I've not looked into the detail) dose Mark go through the constuction of both set and bolt on I presume? The other thing I was aiming for was to make it a 24 fret guitar but I'm not sure if there is a reason not to at first, only considderation here is the body would need to be signifcantly more sculpted where the body starts. I'm thinking though that the set neck actually mak make this less problematic than it might be with a bolt on neck guitar where the pokect is almost enitrely exposed on one side, thoughts?

@tej

Making your guitar with 24 frets is no problem even with a bolt on neck.

When doing a set neck you can decide where to place the neck on the body with regards to fret access, watching the course will explain it much easier than I can type it out here at the moment (hic) 🍻 

Doing 24 frets on a boltie usually means a longer fretboard extension as most most people use the Fender standard neck heel. Personally I would always have all frets over the neck instead of an extension as there is a tonal difference, yup I said it cuz it’s true!

@mattbeels Thanks, I concluded earlier that watching the course is now the next step so indeed this should become more clear, good to know it's not something to shy away from though 🙂 As for tonal difference I don't have the time to experiment so I'll take your word for it unless someone wants to chip in to argue with you, just keep it a clean fight!

@tej

So this sounds like a great idea in theory as one thing I don't want to do is put a lot of effort to ultimately make something that's really silimar to something I already have.

You can build the guitar that you want by following the process that Mark demonstrates on his courses. Just follow the steps, but draw what you want, make your own templates, and choose what hardware you want. You can build anything you want.

@rockpile99 interesting you mention Radian Tools

I'd never come across Radian Tools before.  I get most of my bits from Wealden Tools.  No idea how they compare pricewise, but I've had no complaints re the range of cutters available, quality or service.

I'll take your word for it unless someone wants to chip in to argue with you,

We don't argue with @mattbeels.  Not any more.

Someone did once, but then, one dark night, they disappeared and have never been seen again.  So, it's best to agree with him.  Particularly when he starts talking about cushions and curtains.

Wealden Tools

Fantastic cutters, I use them whenever I can and their prices are very good certainly compared to the like of Trend. For me trend cutters are what I buy when I need to find something (hopefully) in stock down the road and I'm happy to pay for the convenience of having it NOW!! Wealden are for when I'm buying cutters like a grown up!!

So has anyone tried both Wealden and Radian bits and compared them? Wealden certain have an extensive range,  get the feeling I might find things I didn’t know I needed from there 🤔

get the feeling I might find things I didn’t know I needed from there

😆

You most certainly will.  Great catalogue, and so much easier than trying to find a specific bit in a shop!

My experience over the last few years has been a mixture of finding things that I didn’t know I needed, finding things that I didn’t know existed, and finding things that I have no idea how to use but which will undoubtedly come in handy one day.

I might acquire something tomorrow which is pretty much a bit of each of the above ...

😉

Doing 24 frets on a boltie usually means a longer fretboard extension as most most people use the Fender standard neck heel

Warmoth are the only people I know who do that.

Suhr, Ibanez, Charvel, Steinberger, Vigier, you name it, 24 fret necks usually have neck up to the top fret. The heel just starts a couple of frets further up the neck.

The only Radian cutter I use is the 4 flute double bearing for the body shape. It does a great finish, well happy and worth the dosh.