I've trimmed the back braces to length and notched the kerf lining and got the back fitting fairly good. I've dry clamped it with the 6 metres of rubber band that I've cut from an old inner tube, it's not long enough though, I'll need to get some more. I still have to sand the inside and glue the soundboard diamonds over the join, I'm thinking that I'll add some diamonds over the split that I repaird, I'd hate that to open up again. Anyway, thats it back on top of the wardrobe again until next year.
Nice work @robin. Those little diamonds are a very common way to support the crack but I've just recently heard about the use of Japanese paper, pasted along the inside of the crack. It tends to be used in the restoration of older instruments but I have heard of it being used for new builds.
🙂🎶🙏🎸
🗝️ "Life's what you make it"🗝️
Those little diamonds are a very common way to support the crack but I've just recently heard about the use of Japanese paper, pasted along the inside of the crack. It tends to be used in the restoration of older instruments but I have heard of it being used for new builds.
Thanks Russ, my fingers are still sore after sanding all these diamonds to shape. Now that you mention it, I think I saw a guitar repair on Repair Shop on tv using Japanese paper. I wonder if a srtip of T shirt material would've done the job. Mark shows reinforcing the X brace joint with that.
I wonder if a srtip of T shirt material would've done the job.
It would probably have to be some old Grateful Dead T-shirt from the '60's @robin. 🤣
🎸🙂🎶🙏
🗝️ "Life's what you make it"🗝️
a split appeared about 3mm from the joint,
I'd have taken this up with the supplier as it sounds like there was a pre-existing weakness in the soundboard. Before you glue it onto the body have a REALLY good look at it with a very bright light behind it and tap it rigorously all over. Any suggestion of a buzz or a rattle and you should start again with a new soundboard. A real ball ache I know, but not as bad as having a guitar that you've spent months on that you can't bare to pick up and play!
Regards
Darren
I think the split 3mm from joint line was a weakness, but once I'd cut that out and rejoined it, the board was sound. The split that I've repaired since then was caused by my own clumsiness. I thought about dumping it but once I'd glued the braces on, its solid now and no buzzing or rattling, so I've carried on with the build.
Glued the back on yesterday, I thought my 6 metre rubber strip was too short but Mark said it should be enough, and of course he was right, I just needed to stretch it further. I trimmed and sanded the front and back overhang today, I'm well pleased with myself how well the joins turned out. I had been thinking of adding binding, but now I don't want to hide these joins.
That's looking great @robin. You've done a fantastic job joining the back and the top. Adding binding does give it added strength but with such a neat join I think it's worth leaving it as it is too......you can always add binding at a later date if the need arises. Very well done.
🙂🎶🎸🙏
🗝️ "Life's what you make it"🗝️
I've made my bridge now, that's a fun wee project in its own. Took me about 6 hours to do what @markbailey does in his 35 minute video, but just follow the instructions and it happens. Photos of its various stages.
Thats the neck/body joint done, fretboard glued, the neck carved and dry fitted. Doesn't sound much when you say it quickly, but its certainly a challenge getting the neck/body joint without gaps, on the centre line and at the correct angle to get the height at the bridge right. But again, just follow Mark's instructions and it happens.
@robin looks excellent!
Did you buy the acoustic build kit available in the shop?
I'm thinking about pulling the plug on it, but would have to buy the sides bent and I'm not sure how long they'd keep their shape units they're fitted promptly.
Cheers
Dan